Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
we could scarcely help finding the correct route. Place a man at the
right starting point, and he will easily find the upward line of least
resistance, though not so swiftly as he would trace out the downward
line if he slipped.
Twelve yards down from the Mickledore we came to a deep recess in
the mountain side, large enough to penetrate if one is not burdened
with a knapsack. (A confirmation of the right spot is supplied by a
thinner crack six feet lower down the screes.) Wriggling up into the
recess and then out on to the slightly sloping platform above it was
a matter of only a few seconds, and we then found facing us a wall of
from eight to ten feet in height offering very little hand or foothold
for a direct attack. But by descending the sloping grassy ledge at its
foot we could see some iced ledges (clear rocks show the marks of many
boots) that suggested the circumvention of the difficulty. To these we
in turn trusted ourselves, and by passing round the somewhat awkward
left-hand corner of the wall we found an easy though steep route to
its flat top. Then a smaller wall of about seven feet barred the way.
It was easier than the last, though in those days the frost had not
scooped out the hollow on the edge, and by the help of my comrade’s
shoulders I reached the summit. The difficulties were obviously over;
we could walk up by the right on to the snow slope, above which, as our
early inspection from the Pulpit rock showed, there was an easy route
to the top of Scawfell. Unfortunately my friend was not up the last
step. I could not reciprocate his kindness and offer him my shoulders.
We had no rope, and the rocks were all glazed. I had not intended to
mention our ropeless condition, but the truth will out sooner or later;
neither had we nails in our boots. But apparently we had sense enough
to realize that an accident might happen if we tempted Providence any
further, and with some sorrow we decided to descend again. We found
our way down the Mickledore screes and Brown Tongue to Wastdale, and
there learnt that we had tried conclusions with the Broad Stand at
its worst. We also learnt that from the top of the third step which I
had reached the route lay up the snow slope to the broken rocks, then
slightly to the left until the easy part of the chimney could be looked
into, then obliquely up to the right over rough ground to the small
cairn overlooking Deep Ghyll. Many times since then, rattling down the
Broad Stand when the rocks were dry and our party well acquainted with
every inch of the ground, have we recalled that Easter Sunday and our
first essay of the Broad Stand. There have also been many occasions to
remember the golden rule in the descent of these crags. First find the
top of the Scawfell Chimney; keep it on the right till its one pitch is
just below. Then bear to the left down the grassy slope and hunt for
the notch in the top step of the Broad Stand.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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