Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
up second, using his brother’s shoulders and head much as I had used
them. When he reached the ledge he helped me to haul his brother. A.
was unable to stand on his own head as we had done, though we reminded
him of Dent’s famous climber’s dream, and he hung on to the rope with
both hands while we pulled. It must have been rather an unpleasant
sensation that of swinging away from the rocks, but he bore it like
a philosopher, and caught cleverly on to the rib and so up to us. I
am afraid our satisfaction was now somewhat premature, but we were
certain of a safe descent whatever the remainder of our climb might
involve. But there was no sign of failure in store. The chimneys above
us looked steep, but they were deeply carved and therefore safe. Also,
they cut obliquely up the vertical wall, and were not likely to involve
any inch-by-inch wrestling against gravity. These surmises all proved
correct, though we were astonished at the ease with which the remaining
difficulties were overcome. It was now two o’clock in the afternoon,
and we had been half an hour getting up the first thirty feet. The
remainder only took us an equal time, though five times the height, and
consisting of genuine rock-climbing all the way, as the following notes
testify.
After a short lunch and a few minutes spent in erecting a diminutive
cairn, we moved on. Dr. Collier had climbed into the upper part of
the next chimney by a traverse of some difficulty from the right. I
started the same course, but A. had descended a little to look up
the direct route, and called out that it was safer, though perhaps
awkward. Therefore we all descended and entered the chimney, which
is practically a continuation of the crack up which our climb had
started. It sloped slightly to the left, and offered just a sufficiency
of holds, without demoralizing us with a superfluity. In fifteen
feet its difficulties were over, and a few yards higher we reached
another grassy ledge, more protected than the former but giving an
equally grand view of the neighbouring precipices. There then followed
a vertical pitch of twelve feet, simple enough with the help of a
shoulder--or without it, for that matter--and an easy step from the top
towards the right led to the beginning of the upward grassy traverse
that so strikingly marks the break in the continuity of direction of
Collier’s Climb. Many people have expressed doubts as to the safety of
this traverse; on the other hand, these many have not all been there
to see. The route is perfectly safe; there are corners on the Rake’s
Progress that are intrinsically as hard, though perhaps the sublime
situation may have its effect on some susceptible organisations.
Possibly in wintry weather the traverse may have its difficulties, but
if ever it were dangerous the first pitch would be impossible.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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