Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
We found the first part of the final chimney slightly moist. Probably
it is very rarely dry. As the diagram facing page 46 indicates, it
slopes up towards the left and is very deeply cut. The first piece was
practically a walk up a steep incline, using tiny ledges that were
disposed along the slope in the most suitable places. It ended with a
magnificent pull up with the arms over a projecting edge on the left.
Then came the pleasantest part of the whole, the negotiation of
twenty-five feet of smooth, slabby rock by faith in friction and
occasional reference to the overhanging side of the gully. Collier had
rightly made special mention of this part, but to his account I should
like to add that with dry rock and rough garments all will go well.
Even a slip on the part of the leader will not be serious if he is
carefully watched and fielded at the bottom of his slide.
At the finish of this exciting portion we saw the sky-line a few feet
in front of us, and with a spurt we ran up and reached the summit
breathless.
Since that time I have descended by the same route with a different
party. We had just come up Moss Ghyll, and my two friends were well
contented with their day’s work; for Moss Ghyll had been the limit of
their ambition, and they were willing to rest contentedly on their
laurels. To tackle Collier’s Climb had never entered their heads
before--like the death-dealing pebble for poor Goliath--and they shyly
suggested that we had climbed enough for one day. But with the sense
of possession of a trump card up my sleeve--that handy rope-hold at the
bottom pitch--I succeeded in rousing their enthusiasm sufficiently,
and we started downwards. They were perfectly safe men to accompany;
this had been proved in Moss Ghyll, and it was perhaps not so very
wrong to indulge in a harmless exaggeration of the excitement that
the finish had in store for them. But they climbed extremely well in
spite of forebodings, and gratified me immensely by agreeing that for
beauty of surroundings Collier’s Climb has no equal in all the gullies
of the Lake District. The descent was rather easier than the ascent--a
state of things so often experienced in difficult climbing work--and
we reached the lowest grassy platform in half an hour. There we found
the little cairn I had erected a few months before, and were cheered
to see a couple of friends approaching from Mickledore to give us any
aid necessary near the finish. I let down the first man by the rope;
he went well till within ten feet of the Progress, and then, slipping
away from the hold, was left for an uncomfortable moment dangling in
mid-air. Lowered a yard or so his legs were seized by the men below and
he was pulled to their level in safety. There he unroped, and thus also
descended the second man. But he came on the middle of the rope, and
before reaching the spot where he was destined to quit the rocks he was
instructed to slip the lower end of the rope through the safety-hole.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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