Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
But the gap can be reached easily from the summit of Scawfell. If we
walk over to the top of Deep Ghyll we may look across to the pinnacle
on the right and notice the black out made by the Professor’s Chimney
that separates it from us. The knob of rock to the right of the Jordan
gap is appropriately called ‘Pisgah’; it is almost exactly of the
same height as the cairn on the pinnacle, and is barely thirty feet
away from it. By rounding Pisgah to the right, and carefully skirting
the head of Moss Ghyll, we reach the Jordan, and find ourselves on a
narrow ridge with extremely steep plunges on either side. The short
climb that faces us begins in an awkward way, for we have to get up a
few feet of overhanging rock before the slope eases off, and a slip
backwards of an unroped man would inevitably result in a fall down the
Professor’s Chimney or down Steep Ghyll. The firmest rope anchorage
for the leader is at the top of Pisgah, but with more to follow him
the usual plan is to descend to the gap and loop the rope over a large
boulder that lies on the crest of the _col_. He need not worry about
the danger of the pitch if the rocks are in good condition. When Mr.
Haskett Smith first found this way up on September 3rd, 1884, a few
days before he reached the top by way of Steep Ghyll, large quantities
of moss had to be removed, and the finger-holds cleared of earth before
they could be estimated and safely utilized. Not a particle of moss
remains here now; nay, more, a decade of gymnasts have removed much
rock by dint of scraping with their nailed boots, and have made obvious
the safest route to the summit.
It starts a yard or two to the right of the gap, where a sloping
foothold in the overhanging wall shows traces of considerable wear and
tear. The hands can find a sufficient bearing pressure near the edge of
rock above, but it is unwise to place them too high up on the sloping
slab. Then, straightening out on the foothold for a moment, the left
hand can find a thin crack good enough for a hold while the body is
being levered up over the awkward edge. Then the crack can be followed
up the slab to the left till it ends near a little chimney, up which
a scramble of six feet brings the climber within touch of the cairn.
Formerly a small tin box held many visiting cards, and an ancient
pocketbook with the names of the early climbers of the pinnacle. It
was almost a breach of etiquette to pay a call here without leaving a
card, but the polite old days are past, and men come and go now without
this ceremony. A year ago I hunted in vain for the box and fancied that
some curiosity-monger had feloniously appropriated it, but since then I
believe it has again been seen there. It may easily slip down between
the loose stones.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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