Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
This little climb is dangerous in icy weather, and should not then be
undertaken. For there is no particular fun in it when the rocks are
glazed, when bare fingers are necessary for the diminished holds, and
the slow going inevitably involving benumbed hands.
The long routes up are impossible except when conditions are favourable.
[Illustration:
G. P. Abraham & Sons, Photos. Keswick
SCAWFELL PINNACLE AND DEEP GHYLL--WINTER
(_Face page 73_)] ]
The first long way up the pinnacle was climbed on September 20th,
1884, by Messrs. Haskett Smith and John Robinson. They made the ascent
of Steep Ghyll, and then, emerging on the right, climbed up a steep
_arête_ to the pinnacle, where they left their names in a glass bottle.
Descending again to the upper portion of Steep Ghyll, they passed over
to the Jordan and so on to the mountain. With but slight variations,
these were the only ways known until 1888. In July of that year a
party led by Mr. W. Cecil Slingsby succeeded in climbing out from the
lower part of Steep Ghyll on to the north-east face of the pinnacle.
By a long and difficult chimney in this wall they reached the Low
Man, as the nearly horizontal crest of the first huge buttress is
called. Thence a sharp ridge took them direct to the final rocks, which
were sufficiently broken to make the finish easy. This route at once
commended itself to the better climbers at Wastdale as being safe and
sound. The rocks throughout are excellent, and indeed enthusiasts like
to compare the finish with the famous ridge of the Rothhorn from Zinal.
The chief objection to be urged against the climb is the exposure to
wind and cold. I remember once starting up with Mr. Robinson one wet
day in August. He led as far as the foot of the difficult Slingsby
Chimney, and then resolutely refused to budge an inch further because
of the wind, which he asseverated would blow us away to Hollow Stones.
I am inclined to believe him now, but at the time we wrangled all the
way down to the Lord’s Rake, where some damp but enterprising tourist,
pointing up to the vertical crags down which we had been dodging our
way, inquired in a feeble tenor voice: ‘Is there a road up there?’
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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