Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
It was not until December 31, 1893, that I made my first complete
ascent by this route, accompanied by M. and C., the latter leading
all the way up. We crossed the foot of Lord’s Rake, and made for the
slight suggestion of a gully that serves to mark the beginning of the
ordinary Steep Ghyll Climb. It was quite easy to follow, and rapidly
deepened as we rose. In a hundred feet we were in view of the enormous
cleft of the ghyll, with its black and glistening walls apparently
almost meeting each other a hundred feet over our heads. None of us
were attracted by that climb, which is never quite free from hazard,
and we looked about for the spot where our route diverged to the right.
Here the side of the ghyll was very steep for thirty or forty feet
up, but was cut about by ledges and clefts quite good enough for us
to mount the wall safely. Then we bore up a little towards the left,
so as to approach the smooth outer face of the Low Man. Advance was
only possible in one direction, our course taking us out on a nose or
pinnacle of rock separated from the main mass by a deep fissure.
The position was very exposed. It could only be approached from one
direction, that of Steep Ghyll. A glance down the fissure beneath
us revealed the lower half of the tremendous wall to which we were
clinging, and though we had plenty of room to sit down and rest
ourselves, there was a sense of coming peril in the next move. The
illustration facing page 73, taken off the wall from the Lord’s Rake
ridge, shows the pinnacle and the fissure that partially separates it
from the face. Standing on the highest available point, C. had next
to draw himself up on to the little shelf by means of the smallest
of holds and the use of his knees. We were able to guard against his
slipping back, and were glad to see him clamber up easily to the
beginning of the Slingsby Chimney. This begins very awkwardly; it would
be proof of unusual agility and nerve for the leader here to manage the
first six feet without assistance from below. But an unaided ascent
is not impossible, and careful examination will generally cause the
climber to discount much of the terror that he is pretty sure to have
invested in the spot after reading the early literature of the subject.
We hoisted C. up on our shoulders; without hesitation he crept well
into the crack vertically above our heads, and wriggled his way out
of sight. When we had paid out forty feet of rope, he shouted out to
M. to advance, and I was left to speculate on a possible variation of
the ascent by the left of the chimney. In due course M. was firmly
fixed, and my turn came. The steepness of the first fifteen feet was
rather appalling, but it was so simple a matter to wedge firmly into
the chimney that there was no sense of insecurity. After the vertical
bit, the chimney sloped back at an easier angle, and though some
distance had to be climbed before a man might be of much help to those
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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