Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
We were a party of three. Messrs. George and Ashley Abraham were very
keen on trying the new route, and equally anxious to get some good
photographs of the great wall. We climbed up the first pitch in Deep
Ghyll by the crack on the left, and took the second in the ordinary
way. Just where the traverse commences fifteen feet above the top
of the central obstacle, a crack starts up the left wall, with a
prominent jammed block guarding its entrance. Traversing over a leaf
of rock on to the jammed stone, I was steadied for the first twenty
feet of ascent by the rope, and could not have come to much harm in
the event of a slip. But there was scanty room for a second, and I was
compelled to rise with an ever lengthening rope below me. The crack
was followed closely, though it soon became so thin and so erect that
there was nothing to do but keep on the face of the mountain just to
its left, every now and then gripping its sharp edge for handhold. It
seemed to be a virgin climb, though this part had really been visited
two or three times before. Stones had to be flung down, and grit
scraped from the tiny ledges. But on the whole that first sixty feet
was not very difficult, though markedly sensational, and I went on
slowly to a little niche in the wall.
The eighty-feet length of rope just reached to the crack from which
the start was made, and getting George to tie himself on at the lower
extremity, I mounted to a higher and larger niche while he cautiously
climbed up the crack. The situation was very novel. Some may remember
the _firma loca_ in Mr. Sanger Davies’ account of the Croda da Lago.
This grass-floored hermitage of mine was truly a _firma loca_, and
sitting down comfortably in it I took out a biscuit from my pocket and
tried to realize all the view.
It was every bit as appalling as a Dolomite climb. Direct progress
upwards seemed quite impossible; a feasible traverse over some
badly-sloping moss-covered ledges to the right led to the sky-line
at a spot where the _arête_ made a vertical spring upwards for forty
feet. A descent would have been seriously difficult, but it was the one
thing we did not want. I could hear another climbing party finishing
an ascent of the pinnacle by the ordinary route, their voices echoing
down the ghyll and cheering me with a sense of neighbourliness. My
companions were holding an animated discussion below on the subject of
photography. The light was excellent, and our positions most artistic.
The cameras were left in the cave at the foot of the ghyll. Ashley was
afraid I meant to go up without him; but his professional instinct got
the better of his desire to climb, and, shouting out to us to stay
where we were for five minutes, he ran round to the high-level traverse
on the other side of the ghyll, and down the Lord’s Rake to the cavern.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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