Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
George had the tripod screw and could not hand it to his brother; so,
asking me to hold him firmly with the rope, he practised throwing
stones across the gully to the traverse. Then, tying the screw to a
stone, he managed to project this over successfully. We composed our
limbs to a photographic quiescence. Ashley had a splendid wide-angle
lens, which, from his elevated position on the traverse opposite, could
take in 400 feet of the cliff, showing the entire route to the summit.
It was his turn to take the lead. ‘Mr. Jones! I can’t see you, your
clothes are so dark.’ I apologized. ‘Will you step out a foot or two
from that hole?’ I was in a cheerful mood and ready to oblige a friend,
but the platform was scarcely two feet square, and to acquiesce was to
step out a few hundred feet into Deep Ghyll. For this I had not made
adequate preparation and told him so. ‘Well, will you take off your
coat?’ That I could do with pleasure, and for a while his instructions
were levelled at George.
He was in an awkward place and was much cramped in ensuring safety,
but Ashley was dissatisfied and insisted on his lifting the left leg.
This gave him no foothold to speak of, but in the cause of photography
he had been trained to manage without such ordinary aids. He grumbled
a little at the inconvenience but obeyed, resolving that if he were
living when the next slide was to be exposed he himself would be the
manipulator and his brother the centre of the picture. The ghyll had
become rather gloomy and we had a lengthy exposure. I was glad to slip
on my jacket again and draw in the rope for George’s ascent. When he
reached the smaller platform just below me, we tried the traverse over
the slabs to the north ridge, and found that it went well enough. We
were delighted to find traces of the previous party on the rocks at
the corner. They were made by the Hopkinsons three years before (April
2, 1893) in their attempt to mount by the ridge. Their cairn was fifty
feet further down, and we now had the satisfaction of seeing for
ourselves how to connect the Hopkinson cairn directly with Deep Ghyll.
Then came the question of getting our third man up. We tried to
throw the rope-end to him, but it persisted in clinging to the face
vertically below us and would not be caught. I had to return to the
_firma loca_ and throw the rope from there. Ashley now reached it
safely, tied himself on, and hastened up to our level, having left his
camera on the traverse below. In this way we found ourselves together
again, on the corner of the _arête_. The others fixed themselves to a
little belaying-pin while I attempted to swarm up the vertical corner.
A couple of feet above their heads I found that the only available
holds were sloping the wrong way. They could be easily reached, but
were unsafe for hauling, and after clinging for some minutes without
advancing an inch I was compelled to descend and reconsider the
problem. I thought of Andrea del Sarto:
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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