Produced by Chuck Greif and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images generously made available by the Digital & Multimedia Center, Michigan State University Libraries.) ROMANTIC SPAIN: A Record of Personal Experiences. BY JOHN AUGUSTUS O'SHEA, AUTHOR OF "LEAVES FROM THE LIFE or A SPECIAL CORRESPONDENT," "AN IRON-BOUND CITY," ETC. "Oh, lovely Spain! renowned, romantic land!" CHILDE HAROLD. IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL. I. LONDON: WARD AND DOWNEY, 12, YORK STREET, COVENT GARDEN, W.C. 1887. [_All Rights Reserved._] TO WILFRID SCAWEN BLUNT, ESQ., IN TOKEN OF ESTEEM FOR HIS BOLD AND TRUTHFUL CHARACTER, AND OF GLADNESS THAT WE HAVE SO MANY KINDRED SYMPATHIES, This Book is Enscribed BY THE WRITER. PREFACE. This simple recital of personal haps and mishaps in perturbed Spain from the abdication of Amadeus to the entry of Don Carlos, puts forward no claim to the didactic or dogmatic. Its chief aim is to amuse. Of course, if I succeed in conveying knowledge and dispelling illusions--in Tasso's words, if I administer a pill under a coating of jam--I shall be cock-a-hoop with delight. But I warn the reader I am not an unprejudiced witness. I am passionately fond of Spain and her people. Although years have elapsed since the events dealt with occurred, I fancy the narrative will not be hackneyed, for in Spain public life repeats itself with a fidelity which is never monotonous. I do not pretend to cast the horoscope of the poor little monarch who is in the nurse's arms, but Heaven guard him! 'Twere better for him that he had been born in a Highland shieling. Should there be much individualism in these pages, it is intentional, and to be ascribed to the instance of friends. They said, "Bother history; give us plenty of your own experiences." It is to be hoped they have not led me astray by their well-meant advice. CONTENTS OF VOL. I. CHAPTER I. PAGE Which, being non-essential, treats partly of Spain, but principally of the Writer 1-23 CHAPTER II. The Old-Fashioned Invocation--"Them 'ere Spanish Kings!"--Candidates for a Throne--_En Voyage_--Bordeaux and the Back-ache--An Unmannerly Alsatian--The Patriot gets a Roland for his Oliver--Small Change for a Hot Bath--Plan for Universal Coinage--Daughters of Israel--The Jews Diagnosed--Across the Border--The Writer is Saluted "Caballero"--Bugaboo Santa Cruz--Over a Brasero 24-42 CHAPTER III. A Make-Believe Spain--The Mountain Convoy--A Tough Road to Travel--Spanish Superiority in Blasphemy--Short Essay on Oaths--The Basque Peasants--Carlism under a Cloak--How Guerilla-Fighting is Conducted--A Hyperborean Landscape--A Mysterious Grandee--An Adventurous Frenchman--The Shebeen on the Summit--Armed Alsasua--Base Coin 43-60 CHAPTER IV.