Romantic Spain: A Record of Personal Experiences (Vol. I)O'Shea, John Augustus
History
Romantic Spain: A Record of Personal Experiences (Vol. I)
O'Shea, John Augustus
Spain -- Description and travel
The subject, I think, is good. Spain is comparatively unknown. John Bull
on his travels will not open to it. The British tourist in the Peninsula
too often carries with him his native sense of superiority and his
constitutional tendency to spleen. He turns up his nose at what he
cannot, or will not, understand. If the beef is tough, he does not
consider that it ought to be, most of the animals from whose ribs it
came having done honest work as beasts of burden before they were
driven to the slaughter-house. If the Val de Peñas is rasping to his
palate, he ignores that the taste for wine, as for olives and Dublin
stout and Glenlivat, is acquired. If the tobacco is coarse and weedy, he
forgets that it is cheap, and that he can roll his cigarette and smoke
it between the courses. But why does he not console himself for the
absent by what is present--the ripe golden sun, the luscious fruits, the
picturesque costumes, the high-bred dignity of the humblest beggar, the
weird Æolian melody of sudden trills of song, the flashing eyes,
mantilla-shaded, which speak romances in three volumes in every glance?
The truth is, your Briton abroad, I mean the average one--not men like
Mr. Gladstone in Sicily, or Captain Burton everywhere, Queen's
Messengers and Special Correspondents, travelling Fellows of Oxford and
pilgrims of art--your Briton of the tourist type is less inclined to
adapt himself to another sphere than to try and assimilate that other to
his own.
This tourist goes to Spain; he hurries from end to end of the Peninsula,
his guide-book in his hand and his opera-glass across his shoulder; he
pays a flying visit to the Escurial, and pronounces it a gloomy crib;
drops in on Seville, sees it, and does not marvel; mayhap he wanders as
far as Granada, and finds it a dreary "sell;" and then he returns
homeward, hot and tired and disappointed, and is eloquent on the
rapacity of innkeepers, the profusion of counterfeit coin, the
discomforts and unpunctuality of locomotion, the shocking
uncleanliness--but, however, "you know, we got on better than the
Joneses; we saw more sights and covered more country in fewer days." And
this peripatetic postures for the rest of his life as an authority on
Spain! The only point, perhaps, on which his judgment is to be accepted
is one which he might have learned in London, namely, that Price's
circus is not quite so good as Sanger's in Westminster or Hengler's off
Oxford Street. Out upon the poor fool! _He_ know Spain! Why, that is
more than I could dare to say, and I have had experience of it under
Monarchy and Republic, in peace and in war; have mixed with Carlists in
the field, and Intransigentes in the fortress; have traversed it from
Irun to Gibraltar, from Santander to Malaga. He who has not been
admitted into the intimacy of domestic life in Spain, who has not
listened to habaneras by the camp-fire, joined in the jota on the
village sward, shared in thorough sympathy in the sports of the arena
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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