Romantic Spain: A Record of Personal Experiences (Vol. I)O'Shea, John Augustus
History
Romantic Spain: A Record of Personal Experiences (Vol. I)
O'Shea, John Augustus
Spain -- Description and travel
The women of the lower classes do not confine themselves to the same
severity of taste. They are as amorous of glaring colours as negresses.
Cross the iron bridge over the Guadalquivir, here a slow current of
chocolate and milk, and go into the Triana suburb where Tatterdemalion
holds court. There you will meet gowns of printed cotton of the
liveliest hue--gowns that flaunt violent pinks and gamboges, but never a
violet or a pearl-grey, much less a black. These daughters of the people
generally adorn their braided dark hair, which is thick and silky enough
to drive a Parisian belle into agonies of jealousy, with a few bright
natural flowers, and sport cheap trinkets and ear-rings, and fling gay
kerchiefs over their shoulders. The men are as true to the native
costume as the women. That abomination, the stove-pipe hat, seldom
shocks the æsthetic mind. The head-gear is the wide round hat with low
crown and inward-turned brim. The large blue or brown cloak, with
parti-coloured lining, is almost universally worn as in Madrid, but with
this difference: in Madrid the tail of it is held before the mouth as if
there was an epidemic of toothache; in Seville, it drapes full and free.
The Andalusian jacket--broidered with tags, and short so as to show the
scarlet waist-sash--tight trousers, and shoes of untanned leather, are
likewise common. A tidy active working-suit this Andalusian suit is, but
it must no more be argued that the men who wear it are tidy and active
and addicted to hard work than that the women who wear black are going
to a burial-service. No; Seville is the most deliciously idle place in
creation, and the Sevillanos are the most deliciously idle people.
The _vis inertiæ_ is cultivated here as a science; the Castle of
Indolence is somewhere in the vicinity; the central offices of the Lazy
Society are situated in the Calle de las Sierpes. The natives take to
lotus-eating naturally. Pure effect of climate. The Seven Sleepers were
born in Seville, and their descendants still have their torpid being in
the city. It was never meant for the bustle of trade or the whirr of
machinery. It is the place of all others to read Theocritus, 'mid bowers
dipping their leaves into plashing fountains, to eat fruit, listen to
distant music, blow languid wreaths of perfumed smoke, and shut one's
eyes to have visions of fair women. It is the veritable opium-eater's
Paradise.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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