Romantic Spain: A Record of Personal Experiences (Vol. I)O'Shea, John Augustus
History
Romantic Spain: A Record of Personal Experiences (Vol. I)
O'Shea, John Augustus
Spain -- Description and travel
To my explanation that a time of deep interest was at hand, and that
accommodation would be at a premium, Manchester (I felt instinctively he
must be a commercial traveller and in the dry-goods line) continued:
"Yes, I know: bull-fights, Italian opera at the San Fernando, races, fat
women, talking seals, peep-shows, whirligigs--all the fun of the fair.
By Jove! I've half a mind to hang on."
He had not heard of the grand open-air religious processions from Palm
Sunday to Good Friday, nor of the uniquely pathetic service of the
_Tenebræ_, nor of the gorgeous jubilance of Easter Sunday. Some enemy to
Seville spread the rumour that the Republic had set its face against
such ceremonies as mere gauds and vanities, customs more honoured in
the breach than the observance, and that this year they would not be
held. But Seville would not have it so; she would not relinquish her
chance of enjoying a religious raree-show and fleecing the foreigner for
any Republicans. The civil governor issued a proclamation comforting the
lieges by the pledge that now, as ever, the Holy Week would be grandly
kept, kept in a way worthy of cultured Seville, and cultured Seville
rubbed her hands with glee. Crowds were expected to flock in, and the
master of the hotel intended to act royally by them--that is, exact
tribute from them whilst they were at his mercy. Seville meant to be
awfully devout during Passion Week, and awfully jolly the week after. On
Easter Sunday there was to be a bull-fight, one of the finest in Spain,
between the greatest of living toreadores and some bulls of choicely
savage breed. The annual fair, which was represented to me as a revel of
glowing and changing tints in dress--a treat not to be missed by the
artist on any account--was to be held in the middle of April, and
speculative committees were busy over the details of race-meetings,
balls, fireworks, and merry-making generally.
I pressed the representative of the mart of cotton not to depart. But he
was obdurate to arguments touching on the æsthetic. For him the sacred
Biblico-traditional drama of "The Seven Dolours of the Virgin Mary" had
no attraction. He preferred fireworks and the learned pig.
"No," he added, as if musing; "on second thought, I shan't. Bull-fights
I can see at Madrid; and the only race-meeting worth attending, I'm
told, is that at the place where the sherry is manufactured."
"Surely," I ventured, with artless good-nature, "you will wait to
patronize Mr. Spiller, who is advertised as skater-in-ordinary to the
Duke of Edinburgh. It will be something to boast of, that you saw him
gliding and gyrating before the astonished natives, whose only idea of
ice is in the shape of creams, dyed a delicate amber, and tinctured with
essence of lemon. Then, again, your countryman, old Tom Price, the Batty
of the Peninsula, has pitched his tent on the Alameda of Hercules. He's
not to be missed."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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