Romantic Spain: A Record of Personal Experiences (Vol. I)O'Shea, John Augustus
History
Romantic Spain: A Record of Personal Experiences (Vol. I)
O'Shea, John Augustus
Spain -- Description and travel
"Tom Price--bah! You should go to Astley's, in the Westminster Bridge
Road, my boy. That fairly takes the cake. I'm off!"
He went, and I was not sorry; but the spell was broken. I was guest of
an inn. My elysian train of reverie had been smashed up; the genius of
dry-goods had evicted poetry under circumstances of aggravated
harshness; before the stamp of the elastic-sided boot of Manchester,
Pedro the Cruel and Alonso the Wise, Murillo and Luca Giordano, Maria de
Padilla and Leonora de Guzman, "el Rey Chiquito" Boabdil and the heir of
Columbus--all had melted into thinnest of air.
Inexorable duty called me elsewhere before the Holy Week solemnities, so
that I have no opportunity of describing them _de proprio visu_, and I
do not care to rehearse twice-told tales. But whilst I was in Seville I
wandered to and fro and made good use of my leisure, hearing and seeing
as much as most visitors. Of those things which remain imprinted on my
memory I may repeat some without incurring--at least so I trust--the
imputation of boring the reader. There was a basin in the gardens of the
Alcázar, where I was wont to sit beneath the shade of the foliage in
the strong heats of noon. There is an anecdote concerning it which
impressed me mightily. King Ferdinand was here one day, and was sore
perplexed by an affair of state. He required a just and astute judge to
decide some vexed question of the first importance. Walking up and down
he unconsciously picked an orange, cut it in twain, and flung one half
into the water, the cut side downwards. Suddenly an idea struck him. The
monarch sent for a judge, and asked what was that floating before him.
"An orange," was the answer.
Irritated, he dismissed him, summoned another, put the same question,
and received the same reply. This went on until at length one authority,
before answering, drew the fruit towards him with the branch of a tree,
picked it out of the water, and gave the true reply:
"Half an orange!"
There is a sound moral at the core of this orange.
There are five-and-twenty parish churches in Seville and two thousand
priests; but, as too often happens on the Continent, the women were
vastly more attentive than the men to observances of devotion. I made
the acquaintance of a wealthy burgess, a dealer in curiosities, who
asked me round to his shop to inspect some of the charming peasant
costumes of Murcia, now fast falling into disuse--and a grievous pity it
is. It was Friday when I visited him, and he was gobbling pork-chops.
"What! you a Christian, you a son of the Church!" I exclaimed.
"Ah! señor," he apologized; "forgive me! I am very frail, but my wife is
_so_ good a Christian. I reverence that woman. She has gone to Mass
without breaking her fast, and when she returns she will only take one
small cup of chocolate."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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