Barbarism of Tauromachy--A Surreptitious Ticket--The Novillos--Islington _not_ Madrid--Apology for Cock-Fighting--Maudlin Humanity--The Espada a Popular Idol--In the Bull-Ring--A Precious "Ster-oh"--The Trumpets Speak--The Procession--Play of the Quadrille--The Defiance--"Bravo, Cucharra!"--"Bravo, Toro!"--The Blemish of the Sport--An Indignant English Lassie 201-224 CHAPTER XI. The Shamrock of Erin and Olive of Spain--Hispano-Hibernian Regiments--The Spanish Soldier--An Unpopular Hidalgo--Flaw in the Harness--The Organization of the Army--The Guardia Civil--The Cavalry, Engineers, and Infantry--General Cordova--The Disorganization of the Army--Mutiny in Pampeluna--Officers Out of Work--Turbulent Barcelona--Irresolute Contreras--Pistolet Discharges Himself--The Madrid Garrison 225-248 CHAPTER XII. Luring the Reader into a Stony Desert--A Duel on the Carpet--Disappointment of the Special Correspondents--The People Amuses Itself--How the Ballot Works--A Historic Sitting of the Congress--Castelar's Great Oration--The Glory of Spain--About Negro Manumission--Distrust of "Uncle Sam"--Return of Figueras--The Permanent Committee--A Love-Feast of Politicians--The Writer Orders Wings 249-265 CHAPTER XIII. The Writer Turns Churlish and Quits Madrid--Sleep under Difficulties--A Bad Dream--Santa Cruz again--Off St. Helena!--Dissertation on Stomach Matters--A Hint to British Railway Directors--"Odds, Hilts and Blades"--A Delicate Little Gentleman is Curious--The "Tierra Deleitosa"--That Butcher again 266-281 CHAPTER XIV. Delectable Seville--Don Juan Scapegrace--The Women in Black--In the Triana Suburb--The City of the Seven Sleepers--Guide-Book Boredom--Romance and Reality--The Prosaic Manchester Man--King Ferdinand Puzzling the Judges--Mortification by Proxy--Some Notable Treasures--Papers and Politics--The Porcelain Factory--"The Lazy Andalusiennes"--About Cigars--The Gipsy Dance 282-311 ROMANTIC SPAIN. CHAPTER I. Which, being non-essential, treats partly of Spain, but principally of the Writer.