Romantic Spain: A Record of Personal Experiences (Vol. I)O'Shea, John Augustus
History
Romantic Spain: A Record of Personal Experiences (Vol. I)
O'Shea, John Augustus
Spain -- Description and travel
Motion is the sovereign remedy for the vagabond's disease, and lo!
through the leafy barrier of the pollarded limes bordering the Green,
jingle the bells of the tram-car with its trotting team of three
abreast. Three mules, which bring my thoughts to Spain, and to a letter
I have had from my publishers, satirically asking how soon they might
expect the last pages of a promised book on the land of the Dons, the
first line of which is not yet committed to paper. I must think over
that book as I jog along the grooves of the street rails, and survey the
prospect from the roof. How do those mules on the flanks manage to avoid
knocking their hoofs against the metal-ruts, and tripping themselves
up? What a stand-and-deliver air the conductor has as he presents his
snip-snap apparatus, like the brutal key of the primitive dentist, and
viciously punches an orifice in your ticket! For these conductors, as
for letter-carriers, I have a profound sympathy; they are over-worked
and under-paid; and yet they enjoy motion in abundance. But there is a
poetry of motion, as when charging squadrons skim the plain, or a
graceful girl with dainty ankles trips across the beeswaxed floor; and
there is a prose of motion, as of a policeman plodding over his beat, or
the Sisyphus-toil of the treadmill. I ask myself, Will a tram-conductor
ever write a poem? Hardly, I think; and yet, why not? Was not Edward
Capern, who achieved some smooth verses, a letter-carrier?
New Cross, our terminus so far. Over the way is another tram, which will
take us to Greenwich for the outlay of another twopence. Shortly it will
be one continuous avenue of pretentious masonry, from the Thames at
Blackfriars to the Thames by the naval palace, instead of the former
pleasant drive through Surrey fields. With what a fever they are
building, terrace upon terrace, street upon street, interminable rows of
villas in line or semi-detached! The patches of verdure, so refreshing
to the jaded city eye, are diminishing in size and lessening in number.
I like Greenwich; but they should never have removed the veterans of the
ocean from it. Dear to the soul of youth, hankering for the strange and
the stirring, were their three-cornered hats, their wooden stumps, their
withered monkey-jaws puffed with quids, and their hoarse, squall-tearing
voices. What a consuming thirst they had, and with what heroic industry
they did tell lies! Peter of Russia was right: the sovereigns of
England, the sea-rulers, should hold court in Greenwich. The Park with
its fallow-deer is regal; the Painted Hall is eloquent with historic
memories; the initial meridian is an imposing address; and then the
Thames--but here, we are at it. A steamer awaits, and will carry us to
the heart of London for a groat.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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