We all know the story of "Boccaccio's" Jew, who went to Rome an
unbeliever, and came back a Christian. There is no need for alarm; it is
not my intention to repeat the story. Indeed the only reason for my
alluding to it, is to introduce the remark that, at the present day, the
Jew would have returned from Rome hardened in heart and unconverted. The
flagrant profligacy, the open immorality, which in the Hebrew's judgment
supplied the strongest testimony to the truth of a religion that survived
such scandals, exist no longer. Rome is, externally, the most moral and
decorous of European cities. In reality, she may be only a whited
sepulchre, but at any rate, the whitewash is laid on very thick, and the
plaster looks uncommonly like stone. From various motives, this feature
is, I think, but seldom brought prominently forward in descriptions of
the Papal city. Protestant and liberal writers slur over the facts,
because, however erroneously, they are deemed inconsistent with the
assumed iniquity of the Government and the corruptions of the Papacy.
Catholic narrators know perhaps too much of what goes on behind the
scenes to relish calling too close an attention to the apparent
proprieties of Rome. Be the cause what it may, the moral aspect of the
Papal city seems to me to be but little dwelt upon, and yet on many
accounts it is a very curious one.
As far as Sabbatarianism is concerned, Rome is the Glasgow of Italy. All
shops, except druggists', tobacconists', and places of refreshment, are
hermetically closed on Sundays. Even the barbers have to close at half-
past ten in the morning under a heavy fine, and during the Sundays in
Lent cafes and eating-houses are shut throughout the afternoon, because
the waiters are supposed to go to catechism. The English reading-rooms
are locked up; there is no delivery of letters, and no mails go out. A
French band plays on the Pincian at sunset, and the Borghese gardens are
thrown open; but these, till evening, are the only public amusements. At
night, it is true, the theatres are open, but then in Roman Catholic
countries, Sunday evening is universally accounted a feast. To make up
for this, the theatres are closed on every Friday in the year, as they
are too throughout Lent and Advent; and once a week or more there is sure
to be a Saint's day as well, on which shops and all are closed, to the
great trial of a traveller's patience. All the amusements of the Papal
subjects are regulated with the strictest regard to their morals. Private
or public gambling of any kind, excepting always the Papal Lottery, is
strictly suppressed. There are no public dancing-places of any kind, no
casinos or "cafes chantants." No public masked balls are allowed, except
one or two on the last nights of the Carnival. The theatres themselves
are kept under the most rigid "surveillance." Every thing, from the
titles of the plays to the petticoats of the ballet-girls, undergoes
clerical inspection.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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