[Footnote 26: The correspondence, which extends from June 23 to September 5, 1880, and is chiefly telegraphic, was published in the supplement to the _Indépendance Roumaine_, Bucarest, December 6 [18], 1881.] [Footnote 27: After this despatch follows one from M. Bratiano, the Roumanian Secretary of State, finding fault with M. Calargi for his unfriendly tone towards Austria, and here is his edifying reply on that point. 'Let me satisfy you (_vous rassurer_) as to the consequences that might arise from the handing in of this document. Written on paper without any mark, deprived of every official or individual character, bearing no signature, this historical _résumé_ of the phases through which the question has passed cannot compromise anyone.' This is one of the men who make history, and to whom the lives and interests of the million are confided!] CHAPTER IV. TOPOGRAPHICAL, ETC. The chief cities of Roumania--The capital, Bucarest--Ignorance concerning it--Conflicting accounts--Its true character--The 'sweet waters of the Dambovitza'--Dimensions of Bucarest--External aspect--The Chaussée, the ladies' mile of Bucarest--Streets, shops, and houses--The Academy--Its collections--Coins--Dacian, Roman, and other antiquities--Excellent physical laboratory--Professor Bacologlu--The Coltza laboratory--Dr. Bernath--The Cismegiu Garden--Shabby courts of justice--Other buildings--Churches--Railway stations--Fine hospitals--Dr. Davila--The Colentina Hospital--The 'police des mœurs' and the morality of Bucarest--The 'Philanthropic' Hospital--The 'Coltza'--Its museums--Life in Bucarest--Hotels--The upper classes--Places of amusement--Cost of land and houses for different classes--Wages of artisans; of gipsies--Habits of the working-classes--Cost of living, food, clothing, &c.--Native costumes made by the peasantry--Their beauty and variety--The poorest class--Mamaliga--The gipsies--Their origin and history--Their slavery--Wilkinson's account of them in his day--Their emancipation and present condition--Laoutari or musicians--Their other occupations--Their religion--Fusion with the native Roumanians--Striking contrast between gipsies and natives--Lipovans--Roumanian love of bright colours--Pictorial advertisements--Amusing signboards--Absence of intellectual entertainments and occupations--Want of exchange and market buildings--Great advances since 1857--Edgar Quinet's account of Roumania in his day--'The Roumanian Company for erecting Public Edifices'--Funerals--Octroi duties--Their onerous character--A few words on the Jews--Bitter journalistic attacks upon them--Curtea d'Ardges--Its beautiful cathedral--The exterior--Fine tracery and ornaments--The interior--Legendary history--Negru Voda and Manole--Poem of Manole--Entombs his wife alive in the