Round the world in any number of daysBaring, Maurice
General
Round the world in any number of days
Baring, Maurice
Voyages around the world
The first thing to do is to take a rickshaw. It is fine, but
fortunately cloudy; the sun is hidden. In spite of this, it is hot,
very hot. The streets are made of red sand, the houses of Venetian
red stone. You pass palm trees, and trees which look like acacias,
only they have mingled with the intense green of their foliage a
quantity of scarlet flowers. I go scudding along the street to the
Galleface Hotel. You pass babus in white European clothes, and frail
black Cingalese dressed in diaphanous silks, and Anglo-Indians in
pith helmets. The world of Kipling is revealed to one in a trice. A
long drive along the sea leads to the hotel, This is the fashionable
esplanade of Ceylon. Carriages pass up and down full of wealthy
natives. The sea throws up a huge long wash of booming surf. The
hotel is a large white building, like the section of an exhibition.
The bedrooms are high wooden cubicles. As soon as you arrive a tailor
springs from somewhere and asks you if you want any clothes--thin
clothes--made in the night. I don’t think I do. As soon as I have got
a room and disposed of my luggage, I take a rickshaw and drive through
the native part of the town. It becomes more and more like Kipling. You
pass little bullocks, and natives bathing and washing clothes in a
pool; shops full of fruit; natives squatting, natives talking, natives
smoking. You hear all manner of cries, and you smell the smell of the
East.
I wander about until it is dark and then come back to dinner. The
tailor appears again. I don’t want any clothes: but it is no use, one
has to order them, so importunate is he. He measures me and promises to
have the complete suit ready by the next morning at 6.30.
It is when you are dressed for dinner and you come down into the large
high dining-room, full of electric fans, that you realize that it is
impossible to be cool. It is an absorbing, annihilating damp heat that
saps your very being.
The first thing to do is to eat a mango. Will it be as good as you
are told it is? Yes, it is better. At first you think it is just an
ordinary apricot, and then you think it is a banana; no, fresher; a
peach, a strawberry, and then a delicious, sharp, fresh, aromatic
after-taste comes, slightly tinged with turpentine, but not bitter.
Then you get all the tastes at once, and you know that the mango is
like nothing else but its own incomparable self.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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