Rowlandson's OxfordGibbs, A. Hamilton (Arthur Hamilton)
History
Rowlandson's Oxford
Gibbs, A. Hamilton (Arthur Hamilton)
University of Oxford
Our trousseau when we first appear at the university consists of modest
socks and humble waistcoats, and ties which make no claim to originality
or even to smartness. They are content to be merely useful and to fulfil
their appointed functions. But does not every parent learn subsequently,
with dreadful results to his peace of mind, how after our first month we
make our way unerringly to the tailors and clothiers, and there with
deadly earnestness absorb colour schemes which cry a loud challenge to
Joseph’s coat? Our waistcoats are dreams,--sometimes nightmares; the
blending of harmony between shirt, tie, and socks is as perfect as the
rainbow. Our hair, which used to be parted carelessly down one side, now
disdains partings and goes straight back in one beautiful Magdalen sweep.
Our trousers are thrown at the scout’s head as a gift unless they be of
unparalleled width and of exceptional crease.
This tendency to burst forth into strange and variegated garments in token
of our emancipation from apron strings was just as strong in the old days.
The sons of country farmers came trooping into Oxford, their clouted shoes
thick with good red earth, in linsey wolsey coats, with greasy, uncombed
heads of hair flapping in the wind. Their stockings were of coarse yarn,
and they knew nothing better than to have long muslin neckcloths run with
red at the ends. But they soon realised the contempt in which they were
held for this dull chrysalis-like appearance. After a few weeks these
shamefaced clodhoppers sneaked into the side door of the barbers’ shops to
emerge proudly by the front entrance in a bob wig. Their clouted shoes
were relegated to young brothers, and they wore new ones--Oxford cut.
Their yarn stockings gave place to worsted, until, after a very short
interval between their arrival and their settling down, they blushed out
like butterflies in tye wigs and ruffles and silk gowns. The “blood” of
that period, or, as the term then was, the “smart,” or the “buck of the
first head,” was distinguished when he aired his person, Amhurst told us,
“by a stiff silk gown which rustles in the wind as he struts along; a
flaxen tye wig, or sometimes a long natural one which reaches down below
his rump; a broad bully cock’d hat, or a square cap of above twice the
usual size; white stockings, thin Spanish leather shoes; his cloaths lined
with tawdry silk, and his shirt ruffled down the bosom as well as at the
wrists. Besides all which marks, he has a delicate jaunt in his gait, and
smells philosophically of essence.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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