One building, which turns its back on Madrid, faces the Sierra on its
west or principal side and on the north side, while on the east and
south the terraces overlook the hanging gardens and fish ponds. The
building covers an area of 500,000 feet and is 3000 feet in
circumference. It is not proposed to enter here into a detailed
description of the huge structure or its contents. Indeed, a building
which boasts 16 courtyards, 15 cloisters, 40 altars, 88 fountains, 86
staircases, 1200 doors, 2673 windows, 3000 feet of painted fresco, and
120 miles of corridor cannot be dealt with in the space at our
disposal, and an enumeration of the literary and artistic treasures that
are still left to it would occupy some hundreds of pages of print. But
only a tithe remains of the myriad treasures which once adorned its
walls and altars. Before the French invasion its pictures were
priceless, for Philip II. drained Europe of paintings and painters for
the adornment of his palace, and the church teemed with priceless
articles--sacred vessels of gold, a multitude of shrines and
reliquaries, and a tabernacle of such exquisite workmanship that it was
declared to be worthy to be one of the ornaments of the celestial altar.
The grand central portal in the western façade, which was formerly
opened only to admit royalty either alive or dead, leads into the Court
of the Kings, named from the statues of the Kings of Judah connected
with the Temple of Jerusalem. The figures possess little artistic merit,
but they share with the Court and everything connected with the Escorial
the distinction of immensity. They are 17 feet high, and were each cut
by Juan Bautista Monegro out of one block of granite. On the right of
the Court is the Library, with its twenty thousand books and three
thousand Arabic manuscripts, and on the right are the Halls of
Philosophy, the Seminary and the Refectories. The Relicario, from which
one descends to the _Panteon_, is at the extreme right-hand corner of
the church. Philip II. was a relicomaniac, and here in five hundred and
fifteen costly shrines he kept his innumerable precious relics. La
Houssaye scattered the relics to strip the precious metals from the
shrines that contained them. He also stole upwards of a hundred sacred
vessels of gold and silver, the gold and jewelled _custodia_, and the
life-size silver statue of St. Lawrence, which weighed four and a half
hundredweight. A procession of fourteen carts was engaged to convey the
treasure to Madrid. The Court of Evangelists and the Palace Court,
facing the south, are on the right and left of the church, and beyond it
is the palace.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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