The impression conveyed by the sombre, granite-built palace is
distinctly imposing. Several stone staircases lead to the royal
apartments, consisting of sixty commodious rooms, nearly all of which
are covered with rich and brilliantly coloured tapestries, manufactured
at Madrid from designs of Goya, Bayeu, Castillo, and Teniers. The
subjects portrayed are landscapes, hunting and country scenes, and
passages in the history of _Don Quixote_. The stucco of the ceilings of
most of the saloons is the exquisite work of Roberto Michel, while the
many fresco paintings were executed by Patricio Carcéo, Carducho,
Bayeu, Maella, Galvez, Ribera, and Zacarias Velazquez. The fine
collection of pictures that once adorned the walls was destroyed by the
fire of 1604, and of the forty-seven portraits by such famous masters as
Titian, A. Moro, and Coello, only a few remain. The magnificent glass
chandeliers are a feature of the royal apartments, and in the Retablo of
the Oratory there is a copy of Christ bearing the Cross, by Ribalta, the
original of which is in Magdalen Chapel, Oxford. The Court officials are
lodged in a commodious building having a complement of a hundred rooms.
To the north of the town is the Prince’s Cottage, another creation of
that villa-building monarch, Charles IV. It is a delightful example of
the three noble arts that vie with one another to give beauty to the
villa--the old silks that cover the walls, the carvings that adorn them,
and the magnificent chandeliers and rich, varied furniture, which make a
valuable museum of this so-styled cottage. There are also other two
palaces called _La Zarzuela_ and the _Quinta_. Both are surrounded by
fine gardens, and contain sumptuous oratories where Mass is celebrated
on special occasions. These two buildings are surviving portions of the
old edifice. In _La Zarzuela_ Don Fernando, the brother of Philip IV.,
was wont to organise those little vaudeville entertainments which were
christened _Zarzuelas_. It is no longer used for that purpose, the
theatrical performances at El Pardo now taking place in the small but
elegant theatre in the palace which Alfonso XIII. had restored when the
residence was prepared for the accommodation of Princess Victoria Ena.
To the Royal Patrimony also belongs the parish church and the Capuchin
convent of Santo Cristo, situated on the left bank of the river, and
hither, on St. Eugene’s day, the people of Madrid journey in crowds. On
other feast days, also, the beautifully wooded slopes and shady avenues
of El Pardo attract thousands of visitors from the city. It would be
difficult to find anywhere in Europe, at the very doors of the capital,
such beautiful rustic scenery as that enclosed in this royal estate.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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