In San Sebastian the sovereign is not the High and Mighty Señor Don
Alfonso XIII. of Bourbon and Austria, Catholic King of Spain, but
rather is he ‘_le chevalier Printemps_,’ and the respect with which he
is everywhere greeted is based as much in affection for his person as in
deference to his exalted station. In all the festivities and social
functions of the fashionable watering-place, His Majesty takes a
prominent part; and although roulette is forbidden at the Casino while
Royalty is at Miramar, no other restriction is imposed upon the gaiety
of the town by the king’s presence. Don Alfonso is president of the
Yacht Club and of the Horse Show; he distributes the athletic
championship prizes, and is among the guns at every important shoot; the
homely, merry festival of the Urumea would be incomplete without him;
his attendance in the Avenida de la Libertad is as necessary as the
sunshine to the Carnival of Flowers. The queen-mother’s handsome team of
four Spanish mules is to be met with every day in the neighbouring
country, and the king’s motor car is a familiar object of the landscape
between San Sebastian and Biarritz. It was from San Sebastian that he
motored to the bright little French town to make his formal request for
the hand of Victoria Eugénie of Battenberg, and it was to Miramar that
he brought his affianced bride to present her to the queen-mother and
the Spanish people.
If the Spanish coast had been searched from one end to the other, it
would have been impossible to have found a more picturesque spot than
the bay of San Sebastian, where the blue billows from the North Atlantic
bring their long journey to an end on a stretch of the most golden sands
in Europe. During the summer months the crested rollers, following one
another with the regularity and precision of Highland regiments at the
quickstep, sweep through the narrow channel between Santa Clara and
Mount Orgullo, and, making the semicircle of the Concha, break their
formation at the private landing-stage beneath the royal palace of
Miramar, and fall out about the rocky base of Mount Igueldo. Seen from
the royal yacht, the _Giralda_, which always lies in the bay when the
royal family are in residence at Miramar, the town of San Sebastian lies
in the base of a crescent, the horns of which are tipped with the old
light tower at one extremity and the castle of La Mota at the other.
Behind the town Mount Ulia raises its wooded height in the middle
distance, and beyond it, as far as the eye can see, the white-capped
sentinels of the Pyrenees complete the view. One can sip one’s
chocolate on the terrace of the restaurant which crowns Mount Ulia, and
gaze on San Sebastian spread out like a panorama in the valley, or watch
the sunlight reflected from the white cliffs of France, or try to make
out the sword-cut in the coast-line by which the tide flows, as through
the neck of a bottle, into the inland sea, which laps the very
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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