In a little volume of this kind, which is intended as an album and
pictorial souvenir of the palaces of which it treats rather than an
illustrated handbook, little attention has been given to the cities in
which these royal residences are situated, or the country by which they
are surrounded. But a few lines may be added here about San Sebastian,
which in most respects is different from other Spanish cities, even from
the capitals of the other Basque provinces. San Sebastian is kept
spotlessly clean, its municipal management is perfect, and its beggars
are conspicuous by their absence. The modernity of the town is due to
the firing of the place after the siege of 1813, when the only part that
escaped was the bit of old town, situated near the little _Port des
Pêcheurs_, under the shadow of Mount Urgull. The broad, even, regular
streets of the new town, which is bisected by the handsome Avenida de la
Libertad, are flanked by splendid shops and hotels that would do credit
to any European city. The whole place wears an aspect of smiling
prosperity, and its life during the holiday season is one continuous
round of hearty, innocent gaiety. Cricket, it must be admitted, has not
yet been naturalised in Spain, and the golfer must cross the border to
Biarritz to indulge in his favourite game, but every other sport that
the average Englishman affects can be enjoyed here. The bathing from the
beach is the best and safest in the world, and the lover of picturesque
scenery has a paradise of varied landscapes and sea pieces within
walking distance of the town. There is lawn tennis in the new recreation
grounds, and pelota matches, at one or other of the courts, are played
daily; while, for those who care for bull fighting, there is a _corrida_
every Sunday afternoon during the season.
VI
EL ALCAZAR
SEVILLE
The beautiful Moorish palace of the Alcazar at Seville, unlike the more
famous Alhambra of Granada, is still a royal palace, though only
occasionally the residence of their Catholic Majesties. The upper floor,
containing the royal apartments, is always kept ready for these
illustrious tenants, and in consequence is rarely accessible by the
tourist and sight-seer. The palace proper is one of a group of buildings
known as the Alcazares, which is surrounded by an embattled wall, and
includes several open spaces and numerous private dwellings. Immediately
inside the wall are two squares called the Patio de las Banderas and
Patio de la Monteria. At the far end of the former is the office of the
governor of the palace, and to the right of this is an entrance whence a
colonnaded passage called the Apeadero leads straight through to the
gardens, or, by turning to the right, to the Patio del Leon. On one side
this latter square communicates with the Patio de la Monteria; on the
other side is the palace of the Alcazar itself. I hope this will make
the rather puzzling topography of the place a little more intelligible.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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