Crossing the Plaza del Triunfo, which lies between the Cathedral and
the old Moorish walls, we enter the Patio de las Banderas, so called
either because a flag was hoisted here when the royal family was in
residence, or on account of the trophy, composed of the arms of Spain
with crossed flags, displayed over one of the arches. Pedro was
accustomed to administer justice, tempered with ferocity, after the
Oriental fashion, seated on a stone bench in a corner of this square.
The surrounding private houses occupy the site of the old Palace of the
Almohades, and one of the halls--the Sala de Justicia--is still visible.
It is entered from the Patio de la Monteria. Contreras assigns an
earlier date to this room even than the advent of Almohades. It is
square, and measures nine metres across. The stucco ceiling is adorned
with stars and wreaths, and bordered by a painted frieze. The
decorations consist chiefly of inscriptions in Cufic characters. The
right-angled apertures in the walls were closed either by screens of
translucent stucco or by tapestries, ‘which must,’ says Gestoso y Perez,
‘have made the hall appear a miracle of wealth and splendour.’ It was in
this hall, often overlooked by visitors, that Don Pedro overheard four
judges discussing the division of a bribe they had received. The
question was abruptly solved by the division of the disputants’ heads
and bodies. Thanks to its isolation, the Sala de Justicia escaped the
dreadful ‘restoration’ effected in the middle of the nineteenth century
by the Duc de Montpensier. The house No. 3, Patio de las Banderas,
formed part, in the opinion of Gestoso y Perez, of the Palacio del Yeso,
or Stucco Palace, of Don Pedro.
Passing through the colonnaded Apeadero, built by Philip III. in 1607,
and once used as an armoury, we reach the Patio del Leon, where
tournaments used to be held, and stand in front of the Palace of the
Alcazar. The façade is gorgeous yet elegant, of a gaudiness that in this
brilliant city of golden sunshine and white walls is not obtrusive. Yet,
despite the Moorish character of the decoration, the Arabic capitals and
pilasters, and the square entrance ‘in the Persian style,’ the front is
not that of an eastern palace; and it is without surprise that we read
over the portal, in quaint Gothic characters, the legend: ‘The most
high, the most noble, the most powerful, and the most victorious Don
Pedro, commanded these Palaces, these Alcazares, and these entrances to
be made in the year (of Cæsar) 1402’ (1364). Elsewhere on the façade are
the oft-repeated Cufic inscriptions: ‘There is no conqueror but Allah,’
‘Glory to our lord the Sultan’ (Don Pedro), ‘Eternal glory to Allah,’
etc., etc.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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