Royal Winchester: Wanderings in and about the Ancient Capital of EnglandL'Estrange, A. G. K. (Alfred Guy Kingan)
History
Royal Winchester: Wanderings in and about the Ancient Capital of England
L'Estrange, A. G. K. (Alfred Guy Kingan)
Winchester (England) -- Description and travel
From this point we wander into the Choir, and admire the tall carved
spires of oak, blackened by the airs of six centuries. A verger turns
up the seats to show us the quaint carvings of an age when humour did
not seem distasteful in churches--here is a pig playing the fiddle,
another chanting, and a third blowing the trumpet. In the centre of the
pavement lies the sphinx of the Cathedral--rude, archaic, enigmatical.
It has been surmised to be the tomb of some royal Saxon, or of
Bishop de Blois. Winchester men continue to swear it is that of
Rufus, who was “buried in the choir,” but that king’s bones seem, from
an inscription on one of the neighbouring coffers, to have been chested
and perched up by Fox. Everything about it is a puzzle. The rebels in
the Civil War broke it open and found a silver chalice, a gold ring,
and pieces of cloth of gold, within it. This has led to the supposition
that De Blois rested here. In 1868 it was again opened, and one of the
vergers told me he had handled the bones, had seen beside them the
arrow-head with which the king was killed, and had remarked what an
excellent set of teeth he possessed. Remains of cloth of gold and other
tissues were discovered, and seven gold Norman braids finely worked, as
we can see in the library, where they are preserved.[76]
[Illustration: The Choir from the Nave.]
The altar screen must have been most effective when the figures
remained. Dean Kitchin has given a tantalizing account of it, and
during the Civil War a wall was built before it. But throughout the
last century, the niches were filled with modern vases, the gift of an
excellent prebendary, Master Harris, whose zeal was greater than his
taste.
Leaving the learned to fight the dusty battle of Rufus and De Blois,
we make our way to the iron gate, and each deposit the silver obolus
to admit us to the realms of the departed. Here a group of visitors is
waiting, and we look up at the interesting Norman work in the south
transept. There are good reasons for supposing that the transepts were
not built continuously--a change of plan can be traced--and it would
seem that there was at one time an intention of placing a couple of
towers at the end of each transept. The great central tower also was
erected later--after Walkelin’s death.
[Sidenote: Isaak Walton.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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