Royal Winchester: Wanderings in and about the Ancient Capital of EnglandL'Estrange, A. G. K. (Alfred Guy Kingan)
History
Royal Winchester: Wanderings in and about the Ancient Capital of England
L'Estrange, A. G. K. (Alfred Guy Kingan)
Winchester (England) -- Description and travel
“Wykeham did not like the sight,” I replied; “it was, I suppose, not
an uncommon one, for we find in Henry III.’s reign complaints that the
dogs of the Abbot of Hyde and Abbess of St. Mary’s were committing
depredations in the King’s forests.”
[Sidenote: Swithun’s Tomb.]
Hence we made for the north side of the Cathedral, where we passed
through the iron gate to walk on the grass. Close to the Cathedral on
the north-west near a water drain, I observed that the ground had been
recently moved, and the sod was broken, revealing a piece of wall. This
was, in fact, the site where St. Swithun had by his own desire been
humbly buried, “so that the sun might not shine upon him.” Since the
translation of his body the earth here had not been moved until two
years ago, when in digging, several coffins of chalk and stone were
found with bones, and also the mysterious ring already mentioned.
Proceeding towards the east we noticed the doorway into the north
transept by which the pilgrims entered to have their squint through the
grille gate. Beyond the north transept another cut in the grass showed
a wall of great solidity--probably part of the foundations of the “New
Minster,” whose monks moved to Hyde. This wall, lately discovered,
was traced northwards to a point where a stone has been placed in the
grass, and two other stones show the building was square. The old Saxon
church might have been here--some fragments stood above ground in the
beginning of the last century.
We here saw close to us a pointed arch standing alone. It formerly led
to some of the prior’s premises. To the north of it I saw a line of
small, dilapidated houses, bearing the pretentious name of “Paternoster
Row,” which, I fear, does not always awaken religious feelings in the
hearts of authors. Some of these dwellings were very old, and boasted
a little external ornamentation. In the doorway of one of them sat an
aged woman sunning herself. Her features were finely chiselled, and she
had a profusion of white glossy hair. She must have been handsome when
young, and was still
“Bearing through winter
The joys of the spring.”
I asked her if she could tell us the age of her house.
“No, I cannot, sir,” she replied, “but it must be very old from the
way it is built. There are five doors to this room. Pray walk in.”
We complied, and found a very neat little apartment with tables covered
with ornaments, and a brave show of glass. There was a beam across the
ceiling, which I could touch with my hand.
“You can see at the back how old the houses are. Some of the cottages
in the corner have lately been taken down,” she added.
[Sidenote: Bourne.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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