The visitor to Rockstone is sure to see some open boats tied up to the
landing-stage. On first making the acquaintance of these rough-looking
little craft, he imagines they are merely for the use of men who want
to go a-fishing for a few hours, or for anyone who has to make short
river-trips. On going down to the landing-stage a few hours later--if
he is in this part of the world during the early months of the year--he
is surprised to find that some of those old tubs have been transformed
into tent-boats, that the space beneath each awning is crowded with
stacks of small cargo, such as packing-cases, hammocks, pots and pans,
and that round and above the piled-up goods and chattels stretch long
lengths of string laden with calabashes. He is still more surprised
when he learns that a large party of balata-bleeders is about to set
forth in these boats on a two, three, or four weeks’ journey. Not an
inch of accommodation does there seem to be left for passengers; yet
several men manage to squeeze into each boat. They pass long day after
long day in their cramped quarters, smoking, gossiping, dozing, and
taking their turn at the paddles. At night they go ashore, and camp in
the forest; they light a fire, have a picnic, sling their hammocks,
and turn into sleep until daylight makes it possible for them to get a
little farther on their way to work. On days when they have to navigate
one set of rapids after another, and drag the boat overland past fall
after fall, it is but a very little farther they are able to push
forward.
The labourers who leave Rockstone by launch find little boats waiting
for them when they reach the camp that is situated at the terminus of
civilized travelling facilities in the wilds. They then have to rough
it for the rest of their journey.
[Illustration: BALATA BLEEDERS LEAVING SPROSTONS’ STELLING AT
ROCKSTONE, BRITISH GUIANA. _Page 46_
Note large number of calabashes for catching the gum]
On one of the riverways which leads to many grants, there is no steamer
or launch to help the labourers on their way. The work of paddling
the boats along this route is made specially hard by masses of grass,
which drift down from the Savannahs. A way has to be hacked through the
floating barriers with cutlasses. You can imagine what a difficult task
this is when I tell you that the grass on the water is sometimes so
firm that people can walk on it.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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