Ruins of Ancient Cities (Vol. 2 of 2): With General and Particular Accounts of Their Rise, Fall, and Present ConditionBucke, Charles
History
Ruins of Ancient Cities (Vol. 2 of 2): With General and Particular Accounts of Their Rise, Fall, and Present Condition
Bucke, Charles
Cities and towns, Ancient
“We passed,” says the author of ‘Rome in the Nineteenth Century,’
describing a visit to the baths, “the mouths of nine long corridors,
converging together like the radii of the segment of a circle, divided
from each other by dead walls, covered at the top, and closed at the
end. They must always have been dark. Having passed these corridors, we
entered the portal of what is called the house of Mæcenas. It is known
that the house and gardens of Mæcenas stood in this part of the
Esquiline-hill, which, before it was given him by Augustus, was the
charnel-ground of the common people. The conflagration in Nero’s reign
did not reach to them; and it is believed, that a part of them was taken
by Nero into his buildings, and by Titus into his baths. Antiquaries
think they can trace a difference in the brick-work and style of
building, between what they consider as the erection of Augustus’s and
that of Titus’s age: and on these grounds, the parts they point out as
vestiges of the house of Mæcenas, are the entrance, which leads into a
range of square and roofless chambers (called, on supposition, the
public baths), and the wall on the right in passing through them, which
is partially formed of reticulated building in patches. From these real
or imaginary classic remains, we entered a damp and dark corridor, the
ceiling of which is still adorned with some of the most beautiful
specimens, that now remain, of the paintings of antiquity. Their
colouring is fast fading away, and their very outline, I should fear,
must be obliterated at no very distant period; so extreme is the
humidity of the place, and so incessantly does the water-drop fall. By
the light of a few trembling tapers elevated on the top of a long
bending cane, we saw, at least twenty feet above our heads, paintings in
arabesque, executed with a grace, a freedom, a correctness of design,
and a masterly command of pencil, that awakened our highest admiration,
in spite of all the disadvantages under which they were viewed. * * *
Leaving the painted corridor, which is adorned with these beautiful
specimens of ancient art, we entered halls, which, like it, must always
have been dark, but are still magnificent. The bright colouring of the
crimson stucco, the alcove still adorned with gilding, and the ceilings
beautifully painted with fantastic designs, still remain in many parts
of them; but how chill, how damp, how desolate are now these gloomy
halls of imperial luxury! No sound is to be heard through them, but that
of the slow water-drop. In one of these splendid dungeons, we saw the
remains of a bath, supposed to have been for the private use of the
emperor. In another we were shown the crimson-painted alcove, where the
Laocöon was found in the reign of Leo the Tenth. The French, who cleared
out a great many of these chambers, found nothing but the Pluto and
Cerberus, now in the Capitol, a work of very indifferent sculpture.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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