To say that of all the intensely-quiet and respectable houses in that
strange portion of the City of London known as Doctors' Commons the
Crown coffee-house is the most quiet and respectable, is making a
strong assertion, but one which could yet be borne out by facts. It is
a sleepy, dreamy neighbourhood still, although its original intense
dulness has been somewhat enlivened by the pedestrians who make Paul's
Chain a passage to the steamboats calling at Paul's Wharf; and the
hansom cabs which find a short cut down Great St. Andrew's Hill to the
South-Western Railway. But it is still the resort of abnormal
individuals,--ticket-porters, to wit; plethoric individuals in
half-dirty white aprons and big badges like gigantic opera-checks, men
whose only use seems to be to warn approaching vehicles of the
blocking-up of the narrow streets; and sable-clad mottled-faced
proctors and their clerks. There are real green trees in Doctors'
Commons; and flies and butterflies--by no means bad imitations of the
real country insect--are seen there on the wing in the sultry summer
days, buzzing round the heads of the ticket-porters, and of the strong
men who load the Bottle Company's heavy carts, and who are always
flinging huge fragments of rusty iron into the capacious hold of the
Mary Anne of Goole, stuck high and dry in the mud off Paul's Wharf
before mentioned. Life is rampant in the immediate vicinity,--in
enormous Manchester warehouses, perpetually inhaling the contents of
enormous Pickford's vans; in huge blocks of offices where the
representatives of vast provincial firms take orders and transact
business; in corn-stores and iron-companies; in mansions filled from
basement to roof with Dresden china and Bohemian glass in
insurance-offices and banks; and in the office of the great journal,
where the engines for six days out of the seven, are unceasingly
throbbing. But in the Commons life gives way to mere existence and
vegetation. The organ-man plays unmolested on Addle Hill, and the
children's shuttlecocks flutter in Wardrobe Place; no Pickford's vans
disturb the calm serenity of Great Knightrider Street; and instead of
warehouses and offices, there are quaint old dumpy congregationless
churches, big rambling old halls of City Companies, the forgotten old
Heralds' College with its purposeless traditions, a few apparently
nothing-doing shops, a number of proctors' offices into which man is
never seen to enter, and two or three refreshment-rooms. Of these the
Crown is the oldest and the dirtiest. It was established--if you may
trust the half-effaced legend over its door--in 1790, and it has ever
since been doing the same quiet sleepy trade. It cannot understand
what Kammerer's means by it. Kammerer's is the refreshment-house at
the corner, which has long since escaped from the chrysalis state of
coffee-shop, and now, resplendent with plate-glass and mahogany bar,
cooks joints, and draws the celebrated "Crm Grw" Llangollen ale, and
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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