Russia -- Description and travel; Russia -- Social life and customs
We were a strange contrast. I in a light summer suit and wearing a
straw hat; he, in any case a remarkable figure, tall though drooping,
with yellowish-white ancient locks and toothless gums. Several people
stopped to look at us, and some approached more closely to hear what we
were talking about. The representatives of two contrary worlds seemed
to have met, for I clearly belonged to that gay, worldly, commercial
Moscow which is so out of touch with Holy Russia, and the monk was
one of those forbidding figures one would not expect to smile and be
demonstrative in the public street.
I wrote him my address, and he promised to come to me on the morrow.
I then sped on to catch the train, my heart full of delight at this
surprising meeting, this true miracle to which the bright Sunday had
given birth.
Next day Yevgeny came to the hotel at which I was staying and asked
for me. He had put on for the occasion an old straw hat and over it a
surprisingly old and dirty Egyptian sun-helmet. In his hand he bore a
tall cypress staff with a cross on the top, a true palmer’s staff, but
a rare enough sight in Moscow.
The porter of the hotel is artificially made fat like a swell coachman,
and he wears in his hat a circle of tips of peacock-feathers which
make him look very grand. It is his business to know every one who
goes in and out of the great hotel. Probably for the first time in his
experience a monk made to enter the establishment. Father Yevgeny and
he--again two worlds confronting one another.
“No. 214 on the second floor,” said the respectful man in charge of
keys and correspondence.
“This way!” said a small boy, pointing to the lift.
But old Yevgeny had never been on a lift in his life.
“My sinful old legs will carry me up,” said he--he mounted the many
stretches of broad carpeted stairway to the second floor, which is
really the third. There was a timid knock at my door, and my visitor
had arrived.
“Father Yevgeny!” I cried.
I showed him his portrait in my book, and translated aloud the
chapter written there about him. He seemed to be extremely pleased.
We considered the portraits of the other pilgrims in turn. Abraham,
who had been twenty times to Jerusalem, was of a Cossack family. The
man carrying the lantern designed for the holy fire was now dead. The
priest standing beside the dead pilgrim in the picture was now at
Troitskaya Lavra. I made Father Yevgeny a present of the volume, and he
bade me write in it in Russian, “To the hermit Yevgeny of Mount Athos.”
“How is it you come to be in Moscow and not at Mount Athos?” I asked.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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