Russia -- Description and travel; Russia -- Social life and customs
FROM the end of November to the middle of January the sun does
not rise in Russia’s new haven. All would be dark even at mid-day were
it not for the snow. The stars never set. The lights in the little
wooden dwellings are never put out. Great gales blow, rolling up
mountainous waves on the Arctic. Or Polar mists swallow up everything.
Snowstorms go on indefinitely and the frost may be forty degrees,
fifty degrees. Here is no town, no civilisation. Alexandrovsk has
no pavement, no high street, no cinema theatre, no hotel, not even
a tavern. Its population is hard, gloomy, northern. No one has any
intelligence of the great world far away to the south--the gaze is
toward the North Pole.
They say it has a great future. ’Twill be a mighty city with roaring
traffic and skyscrapers, theatres, cafés, passion, and sin. It will be
the Odessa of the North. Valery Brussof anticipates such a city in one
of his fantastic stories--Zvezdny, the capital of the Southern Cross
Republic, and as we read we ask--“Could it be? Could such a place ever
come to be?”
In any case, in the midst of this great destructive war one piece of
constructive work is in hand, the fashioning of a new port for Russia
far within the Arctic circle. We hear little of the work in England, or
we hear laconic accounts, such as: “A branch of railways has been built
on from Archangel to an ice-free port farther north, kept open by the
Gulf Stream,” which is inaccurate as regards the route of the railway
and, moreover, gives the impression that such a railway is easily
built, might, in fact, be improvised. But in truth it is not so trivial
a matter. The nearer you get to the actual place the more astonished
you are to recollect the airy opinions you heard expressed in Fleet
Street at home.
The harbour of Ekaterina, on which stand the town of Alexandrovsk and
the barracks of Semionova, is a queen of harbours, a marvellous natural
refuge, certainly no makeshift place. And then, as a glance at the
map will convince, it is not near Archangel, least of all by land. No
railway could ever go direct from Alexandrovsk to Archangel, and no
railway of any kind could easily or rapidly be built over a thousand
miles of _tundra_.
Those Russians who live in the north are in raptures over their new
port. Russia shall face north, the whole of North Russia shall be
functionised in Alexandrovsk and Archangel. And, indeed, the longer the
war lasts the better for this northern region materially. If the war
lasts three years longer Russia will certainly finish up in possession
of a new port and a valuable railway.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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