English essays -- 20th century; Russia; Russia -- Fiction; Russia -- Social life and customs; Short stories, English
I left Nijni on Saturday the 10th. What surprised and struck me most
about the Fair was the great size of it. One hears of the Fair of
Nijni, and one pictures to oneself a quantity of small booths in a
market-place. One does not realise--at least I did not--that the Fair
is a large town consisting entirely of shops, hotels, and restaurants.
The most important merchandise that passes hands at the Fair consists
of furs. But there are goods of every variety; second-hand books,
tea and silks from China, gems from the Urals, and “art nouveau”
furniture. There are also old curiosity shops rich in old Church
vestments, stiff copes and jewelled chasubles, which would be found
most useful by those people who like to furnish their drawing-rooms
entirely with objects diverted from their proper use; that is to say,
with cigarette ash trays made of Venetian wells and teapots made out
of musical instruments and old book bindings. Nijni during the Fair
is almost entirely inhabited by merchants--merchants of every kind
and description. The majority of them wear loose Russian shirts and
top-boots. I noticed that at Nijni it did not in the least signify
how untidily one was dressed; however untidy one looked one was sure
of being treated with respect, because slovenliness at Nijni does not
necessarily imply poverty, and the people of the place justly reason
that however sordid one’s exterior appearance may be there is no
knowing but that one may be a millionaire. Another thing which struck
me here, a thing which has struck me in several other places, was the
way in which people determine your nationality by your clothes. And
while they paid no attention to degree in the matter of clothes at
Nijni, as to whether they were shabby or new, they paid a great deal
of attention to kind. For instance, the day I arrived I was wearing
an ordinary English straw hat. This headgear caused quite a sensation
amongst the sellers of Astrakan fur. They crowded round me, crying
out, “Vairy nice, vairy cheap, Engleesh.” I bought a different kind of
hat, a white yachting cap, and loose silk Russian shirt, such as the
merchants wore.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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