The first thing which struck us, as we entered the great court, was the
peculiar South Russian taste for filling in the line of roof between the
numerous domes with curving pediments and tapering turned-wood spirelets
surmounted by golden stars and winged seraphs' heads surrounded by rays.
The effect of so many points of gold against the white of the walls,
combined with the gold of the crosses, the high tints of the external
frescoes, and the gold of the cupolas, is very brilliant, no doubt; but
it is confusing, and constitutes what, for want of a better word, I must
call a Byzantine-rococo style of architecture. The domes, under Western
influence, during the many centuries when Kieff was divorced from
Russia, under Polish and Lithuanian rule, assumed forms which lack the
purity and grace of those in Russia proper. Octagonal cupolas supported
on thick, sloping bases involuntarily remind one of the cup-and-ball
game. Not content with this degenerate beginning, they pursue their
errors heavenward. Instead of terminating directly in a cross, they are
surmounted by a lantern frescoed with saints, a second octagonal dome, a
ball, and a cross. These octagons constitute a feature in all South
Russian churches.
Along the sides of the court leading to the great Assumption Cathedral
stood long, plain one and two story buildings, the cells of the monks.
Rugs of fine coloring and design were airing on the railings in front of
them. I examined their texture, found it thick and silky, but could not
class it with any manufacture of my acquaintance. I looked about for
some one to question. A monk was approaching. His long, abundant hair
flowed in waves from beneath the black veil which hung from his tall,
cylindrical _klobuk_, resembling a rimless silk hat. His artistically
cut black robe fell in graceful folds. I should describe him as
dandified, did I dare apply such an adjective to an ecclesiastical
recluse. I asked him where such rugs were to be found. He answered that
they were of peasant manufacture, and that I could probably find them in
Podol, the market below the cliffs. These specimens had been presented
to the monastery by "zealous benefactors."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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