Then he took his turn at questioning. I presume that my accent was not
perfect, or that I had omitted some point of etiquette in which an
Orthodox Russian would have been drilled, such as asking his blessing
and kissing his hand in gratitude, by way of saying "good-morning," or
something of that sort. His manner was that of a man of the world,
artistically tinged with monastic conventionality, and I wondered
whether he were not an ex-officer of the Guards who had wearied of Court
and gayeties. He offered to show us about, and took us to the
printing-house, founded in the sixteenth century. It is still one of the
best and most extensive in the country, with a department of
chromo-lithography attached for the preparation of cheap pictures of
saints. One of the finest views in town is from the balcony at the rear
of this building, and the monk explained all the points to us.
There was an air of authority about our impromptu guide, and the
profound reverences bestowed upon him and upon us by the workmen in the
printing-house, as well as by all the monks whom we met, prompted me to
inquire, as we parted from him, to whom we were indebted for such
interesting guidance and explanations.
"I am _otetz kaznatchei_," he replied, with a smile, as he not only
offered his hand, but grasped mine and shook it, with an expression of
his cordial good wishes, instead of bestowing upon me a mechanical cross
in the air, and permitting me to kiss his plump little fingers in
return, as he would undoubtedly have done had I been a Russian. I
understood the respect paid, and our reflected importance, when I
discovered that the "Father Treasurer" occupies the highest rank next to
the permanent head of the monastery officially, and the most important
post of all practically.
Shortly after, the question fever having attacked me again, I accosted
another monk, equal in stateliness of aspect to the Father Treasurer. He
informed me that from seven hundred to one thousand persons lived in the
monastery. Not all of them were monks, some being only lay brethren.
Each monk, however, had his own apartments, with a little garden
attached, and the beautiful rugs which I had seen formed part of the
furnishings of their cells. A man cannot enter the monastery without
money, but fifty rubles (about twenty-five dollars) are sufficient to
gain him admittance. Some men leave the monastery after a brief trial,
without receiving the habit. "In such a throng one comes to know many
faces," he said, "but not all persons."
I inquired whether it were not a monotonous, tiresome life.
"It seems so to you!" he replied, when he had recovered from his
amazement; and when I mentioned the liturgy which is peculiar to the
monastery cathedral, and famed throughout Russia as "the Kieff-Catacombs
singing," all he found to say was, "It is very long."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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