The plain facades of the older buildings on this part of the Prospekt,
which are but three or four stories in height,--elevators are rare
luxuries in Petersburg, and few buildings exceed five stories,--are
adorned, here and there, with gayly-colored pictorial representations of
the wares for sale within. But little variety in architecture is
furnished by the inconspicuous Armenian, and the uncharacteristic Dutch
Reformed and Lutheran churches which break the severe line of this
"Tolerance Street," as it has been called. Most fascinating of all the
shops are those of the furriers and goldsmiths, with their surprises and
fresh lessons for foreigners; the treasures of Caucasian and Asian art
in the Eastern bazaars; the "Colonial wares" establishments, with their
delicious game cheeses, and odd _studena_ (fishes in jelly), their
pineapples at five and ten dollars, their tiny oysters from the Black
Sea at twelve and a half cents apiece.
Enthralling as are the shop windows, the crowd on the sidewalk is more
enthralling still. There are Kazaks, dragoons, cadets of the military
schools, students, so varied, though their gay uniforms are hidden by
their coats, that their heads resemble a bed of verbenas in the sun.
There are officers of every sort: officers with rough gray overcoats and
round lambskin caps; officers in large, flat, peaked caps, and
smooth-surfaced voluminous cape-coats, wadded with eider-down and lined
with gray silk, which trail on their spurs, and with collars of costly
beaver or striped American raccoon, and long sleeves forever dangling
unused. A snippet of orange and black ribbon worn in the buttonhole
shows us that the wearer belongs to the much-coveted military Order of
St. George. There are civilians in black cape-coats of the military
pattern, topped off with cold, uncomfortable, but fashionable chimneypot
hats, or, more sensibly, with high caps of beaver.
It is curious to observe how many opinions exist as to the weather. The
officers leave their ears unprotected; a passing troop of soldiers--
fine, large, hardy fellows--wear the strip of black woolen over their
ears, but leave their _bashlyks_ hanging unused on their backs, with
tabs tacked neatly under shoulder-straps and belts, for use on the
Balkans or some other really cold spot. Most of the ladies, on foot or
in sledges, wear bashlyks or Orenburg shawls, over wadded fur caps, well
pulled down to the brows. We may be sure that the pretty woman who
trusts to her bonnet only has also neglected to put on the necessary
warm galoshes, and that when she reaches home, sympathizing friends will
rub her vain little ears, feet, and brow with spirits of wine, to rescue
her from the results of her folly. Only officers and soldiers possess
the secret of going about in simple leather boots, or protected merely
by a pair of stiff, slapping leather galoshes, accommodated to the
spurs.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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