One difficulty about foreigners visiting Russia in winter is, that those
who come for a short visit are rarely willing to go to the expense of
the requisite furs. In general, they are so reckless of their health as
to inspire horror in any one who is acquainted with the treacherous
climate. I remember a couple of Americans, who resisted all
remonstrances because they were on their way to a warmer clime, and went
about when the thermometer was twenty-five to thirty degrees below zero
Reaumur, in light, unwadded mantles, reaching only to the waist line,
and with loose sleeves. A Russian remarked of them: "They might have
shown some respect for the climate, and have put on flannel compresses,
or a mustard plaster at least!" Naturally, an illness was the result. If
such people would try to bargain for the very handsome and stylish
coffins which they would consider in keeping with their dignity, they
would come to the conclusion that furs would prove cheaper and less
troublesome. But furs or coffins, necessaries or luxuries, everything
must be bargained for in Holy Russia, and with the American affection
for the national game of poker, that should not constitute an objection
to the country. Only non-card-players will mind such a trifle as bluff.*
* Reprinted, in part, from _Lippincott's Magazine_.
V.
EXPERIENCES.
So much has been said about the habits of the late Emperor Alexander
III. in his capital, that a brief statement of them will not be out of
place, especially as I had one or two experiences, in addition to the
ordinary opportunities afforded by a long visit and knowledge of the
language and manners of the people.
When the Emperor was in St. Petersburg, he drove about freely every day
like a private person. He was never escorted or attended by guards. In
place of a lackey a Kazak orderly sat beside the coachman. The orderlies
of no other military men wore the Kazak uniform. Any one acquainted with
this fact, or with the Emperor's face, could recognize him as he passed.
There was no other sign; even the soldiers, policemen, and gendarmes
gave him the same salute which they gave to every general. At Peterhoff,
in summer, he often drove, equally unescorted, to listen to the music in
the palace park, which was open to all the public.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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