Natural history -- Sahara; Sahara -- Description and travel
Yet man and beast show that they are now very tired. None of the
brief, bright gayness of the morning is present, even although the
merciful retreat of the sun makes the evening hour delicious and
tempting. The fact is that spirits are wearied beyond caring for
aught on earth—except a longing to rest and sleep.
About 6 p.m. the hot day closes over the heated earth, as the tyrant
sun sets in gorgeous beauty amidst rainbow tints of every hue that
mistily touch both earth and sky with magic wand, and belie the
terror of that pitiless reign that has passed.
And again the men dismount and pray.
On, through the dusk we travel—and into the night. Body and
soul ache for the word to halt and camp; but still we hold on. All
know the need that drives us to uttermost effort—need to reach
water—and the goal still a long way ahead.
The night is strangely still. The desert’s lack of living creature
is more intimately apparent now than through the day, for the vast
range of our daylight surroundings has narrowed to our immediate
circle, which is no more than a thin line of passage cleaved
through thick banks of blackness. In our path no jackal cries;
no hyena laughs. Neither does ground-bird twitter, nor wings of
night-flight ruffle the air. Nothing moves, nothing lives. We can
almost “hear” the silence, it is so acute; and the noiseless
feet of the camels move over the sand as if they were ghosts,
afraid of disturbing a land of the dead.
If you have ever waited, with deep anxiety, for a precious
sound—the cry that tells you that a lost comrade has been found,
or, a sound-signal that fulfils a vital appointment after it has
kept you, tuned to expectancy, waiting overlong in suspense—you
must know one of the greatest joys that can fall on human ears,
when, by a sudden whim of chance, the world gives up the message
you have prayed for. It had gone 9 p.m. when I drew my camel to
a halt, and shouted “SUBKA!” The effect of revival along the
caravan was startling. It was the glad signal that everyone was
aching for—the signal that meant “Camp at last” and “Rest.”
And a great sigh of gladness went up from the hearts of the weary
men, as they dropped stiffly from their camels and started to unload.
There was no need to urge the camels to get down. We had no sooner
halted than each sank to the sand, leg-weary beyond the telling—for
sixteen long, weary hours their feet had never ceased to pass onward
over the desert.
We had camped in our tracks; there was no choice of ground—nothing
but endless sand, duneless and featureless.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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