Natural history -- Sahara; Sahara -- Description and travel
At three or four o’clock, on the morning that follows, feeling
more dead than alive, and that we have hardly been asleep at all,
we are forced to rise from our couches. Camels are roaring on all
sides; the caravan is about to set out again. It is bitterly cold
before dawn at this season, and all shiver in thin clothing. A fire
is out of the question; we have only a bare supply of fuel. So we
busy ourselves reloading and are off again well before daybreak.
Thus the long days, and short nights, passed, as the _Taralum_
held on its steady course across the seas of desert.
Each individual throughout the caravan who had not made the journey
to Bilma before was known as _Rago_ (sheep); while, once the journey
has been made, a man attains the distinction of the title, _Sofo
Aroki_ (Old Traveller).
Many had made the journey during previous years, yet to one man only
was entrusted the right to guide, and his judgment was absolute
law. No one questioned it, and, without chart or compass, or any
mechanical aid whatever, he travelled unerringly to the goal. His
name was Efali: a little old man, with remarkable, piercing eyes. He
was famous as a traveller and as an old raider; but most famous of
all as a guide in the desert. He held the life of the caravan in his
hands, and his judgment of direction was uncanny in the exactitude
with which he traversed the featureless wastes that each day lay
before him like a vacant sea. It was only at rare intervals that
anyone in doubt became aware that he was travelling true. At such
times, when we were no doubt travelling an old trail, minute signs
that might escape the layman were noted by sharp eyes, such as a
half-buried pellet of camel-dung, or a thread of frayed and crumbled
rope, or a tiny piece of clothing-end. And those sometimes led to
something much more tangible—the bleached bones of camels half
buried in sand.
As illustrative of the exacting nature of this redoubtable voyage
over the Bilma Desert, some account regarding the strain of it may
be of interest.
The men of the _Taralum_ undoubtedly rank among the ablest travellers
and camel-men in the world, yet throughout the journey much weariness
was remarked in the caravan. Men and camels tired badly; tired,
too, in many cases, long before the end. The excessively long days,
and the heat of a merciless sun, told their tale.
Truly it is the dominion of the sun, which is the most exhausting
thing of all in an utterly pitiless land. Many men suffered terribly
from constant sun-glare on eyes that could not endure the strain,
which not only caused aches and pains, but also induced acute
fatigue. Men so affected, after a time, cannot look upon the
landscape without great effort, and one sees them sitting on their
loads, with gowns drawn closely over their faces, while they doze
and droop to the point of falling from their seats.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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