Natural history -- Sahara; Sahara -- Description and travel
It is obvious that to stand thus alone and live, self-reliant and
self-dependent, Fachi must be strong—_strong with an uncanny
genius_. And that that is so is soon revealed.
Its outer fortifications are the walls that enclose it—a double
line of ramparts, with a broad moatlike ditch between. To-day the
outer barrier is incomplete, for it is battered and broken in places
that have not been repaired, but the inner and principal wall is
all that a powerful defence should be: high and grim and unscalable.
[Illustration: A DOORWAY IN FACHI]
[Illustration: THE “SEVEN PALMS” OF FACHI]
My feelings, when I first entered Fachi through its frowning walls,
were of bewilderment and astonishment.
Through an open doorway, unpretentious from the outside, one
passed down a few crumbling steps, and stood on the threshold of
the town. Sense of protection from the outside world, with its
blighting sun and sand-filled wind, was present at once, while an
eerie gloominess already threatened; for the level of the town was
almost cellar-depth below the land outside. Flung back against the
thick exterior wall, rested the first grim evidence of defence: a
heavy, palm-plank door riveted, primitively, and chained together,
while a great beam and a stone set into the floor of the court
within showed how it was closed and buttressed when need arose
(I was soon to learn that every street, every dwelling entrance,
every room within these dens, had doors of the same character
of formidable strength). Over this portcullis type of entrance,
which gave the only way of entry to the town, the white jaw-bones
and skull of a camel are built into the wall, on the inside, for
all the world like the crest of a gang of pirates.
But the strangest novelty, in those first moments, lay in the
discovery that, on all sides, the walls were constructed with _salt_,
blackened with dust and age, yet, surely, _salt_, set as hard as
the finest concrete and rasping as broken glass. It was not long
before it dawned on me that the whole of the remarkable town was
built of the same material.
The court, or area, inside the entrance, is small. But, passing
on through a dark, shadowy, covered porchway, I soon learned that
everywhere space was given away with niggardly economy.
Leaving the entrance, one enters a maze of alleys which represent
the streets of the town: alleys that twist and turn in an amazing
fashion, so that it is difficult to get an unobstructed view of
more than a mere twenty or thirty feet of fairway. They are the
narrowest slits of lanes, man-wide in places, but twice that width
on an average; closely confined by black dwelling-high walls. Such
sections of them as are fortunate enough to have a narrow overhead
outlet to the sky are filled with shadows. Where roofed over they
are dark and grim; mouse-ridden nooks, where man might lurk at any
hour of the day who wished to cut an enemy’s throat.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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