Natural history -- Sahara; Sahara -- Description and travel
Like gold in other lands, the famed deposits of salt in the Sahara
are not numerous. I know of only three that are of great reputation:
Bilma, Tigguida n’Tisem, and Taudeni. There are possibly others,
in the great desert, of renown that has not reached me. The two
former I have visited, and will endeavour to describe, while Taudeni,
about 400 miles in the desert north of the Niger bend, contains the
famous mines of rock-salt that, in being transported south through
Timbuktu, gives to that world-famous town its chief trade.
I will deal first with Bilma. The oasis of that name lies in a
basin in the midst of a great region of loose sand-dunes which
offer extraordinary natural protection. No stranger may find his
way into Bilma through those dunes unguided, and its position is so
secretive, a tiny place in a hollow in one boundless sea of dunes,
that its presence is absolutely unsuspected until one comes suddenly,
with astonishment, right on top of it.
A long, lake-like stretch of bare sun-cracked flats of soda and salt,
glaring fiercely white in the stifling sun, lie before the small
town, which is at the south end, while at the other end, a mile
or so distant, are the piled-up, uneven hills of the workings of
the famous salt-pits. The town, and the French fort that is there,
are sheltered to some extent by small groves of date-palms.
The French occupation of Bilma is unique in the territory. It is
a far-flung outpost, and the fort stands alone like a Dreadnought
in an unknown sea, far from recognised frontiers. That such a fort
has been established, and held, is eloquent acknowledgment of the
value of the salt-pits and the strategic position that Bilma holds
in checking the wanderings of the cut-throat raiders that seek to
pass between Tibesti and Aïr, or from the Fezzan to the northern
fringes of Hausaland.
Bilma was first occupied by the French in 1906, and the founding of
a post so remote, and in the heart of enemies’ country, was filled
with dangers and difficulties. To-day, over the door of the sturdy,
earth-built post in Bilma, are the words FORT DROMARD, and by reason
of the name the fort has been made a lasting monument to Lieutenant
Amédée Dromard, a soldier-pioneer who, single-handed with native
soldiers, fought for the French flag’s erection in Bilma, defended
its brave upstanding, and won—to die in completing his noble task.
The record of his career hangs on the walls, worthy of the best
traditions of his country; indeed, a record of which any country
might well be proud. In the concluding paragraphs one reads:
“He fought conspicuously at Agadem (south of Bilma) on 7th
January 1908.”
And finally:
“He was wounded in fighting at Achegur (north-west of Bilma) on
1st July 1909, and died at Bilma on 5th September of the same year,
after being carried for two weeks on the shoulders of his faithful
native followers.”
[Illustration: AT WORK IN THE SALT-PITS OF BILMA]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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