Natural history -- Sahara; Sahara -- Description and travel
Neither in the buildings of the town nor in the faces of the
people is there hint of anything remarkable. The attraction it
possesses lies partly in the eerie environment, and in the mystery
of unrecorded history, but chiefly in the salt-pits and _the work
of the people_.
The town is barely fifty yards from the salt workings, which are not
only unique but also extremely picturesque. They are made up of a
series of very flat, pond-like spaces, connected to one another in
an irregular chain by gate-wide necks. By reason of the excavations
that have made the areas, they lie between high banks and cuttings of
earth. The whole of the pond-like spaces, which constitute the floors
of the workings, are on one level, and the amazing fact is that the
whole place is one sea of closely crowded toilet-like basins, shaped
with clay rims on the top of a level base. They are the brine-pans
of Tigguida n’Tisem, where salt is obtained by a natural process
of evaporation. And, looked at from the high banks of the workings,
they make a very remarkable picture in their network array of
countless water-filled or salt-glistening circles, and method of
neatness and plan; while graceful figures, busy at work among them,
add to the extreme novelty and attractiveness of the scene.
[Illustration: THE SALT-PANS OF TIGGUIDA N’TISEM]
These workings are even more unusual and more picturesque than Bilma,
and they differ, also, in the fact that a great deal of labour is
demanded in obtaining very modest quantities of salt.
The method of obtaining the salt is as follows:
The product is secreted in the soil and sand of the low
hill. Well-like pools down in the workings among the salt basins,
are the “mixing pots,” where the salt-bearing earth from the
hill and water, already brackish, are mixed to make a fluid of
strong brine. On close inspection it is found that the bottom of
the workings is of solid _rock_, and the basins are formed thereon,
to hold water securely, simply by moulding carefully plastered rims
of clay to the circle desired. As each shallow basin dries out,
and after the frigid salt sediment, or crust, has been collected,
it is scrupulously cleaned with a hand-whisk and refilled with a
skin-bucket or two of brine. The basin is then left undisturbed,
beneath blue sky and blazing sun, for the day or two required for
the water to completely evaporate.
And thus the people of Tigguida labour constantly in these workings,
which provide their sole means of livelihood. Whether puddling clay,
carrying water, sweeping out basins, or collecting the salt crust,
they are ever busy at one ploy or another; exhibiting a commendable
diligence that is foreign to other people of the land.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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