Upolu is almost entirely surrounded by barrier reefs; these wonderful submarine walls, or breakwaters, built up to the level of the sea and forming a fine smooth lagoon, invaluable for fishing and facilitating all kinds of communication between the settlements along the coast. The distance between the shore and the reef is from thirty feet to three or four miles. In some places the lagoons are shallow, and require the rise of the tide to allow a canoe or boat to pass along; in other places, and particularly where there are openings in the reef, they are from ten to twenty fathoms deep, and afford anchorage to ships. The rivers are neither numerous nor large, but there is no lack of fresh water; it springs up in abundance in many parts in the interior and along the coast. The Dutch "three-ship expedition," under Roggewein, in 1722, seems to have been the first to notice these islands. Then followed the French navigators, Bougainville and La Perouse, the former in 1768 and the latter in 1787. Bougainville, seeing the natives move about so much in canoes, gave the group the name of the "Isles of the Navigators." Captain Cook heard of them in 1773 from the Tongans, noted some of their names, and in 1791 they were visited by H.B.M. ship _Pandora_. Little, however, was known of these islands until 1830, when a mission was commenced there by the agents of the London Missionary Society. The natives, who number about 35,000, are of the prevailing light copper colour of central and eastern Polynesia. Hardly a vestige is to be seen among them of the crisped and woolly-haired dark-brown Papuans, or western Polynesian negroes. But as the physical characteristics and languages of central and eastern Polynesia are well known, I pass on to other and traditionary matters, and begin with what the Samoans have to say on COSMOGONY AND MAN. 1. There was first of all Leai, _nothing_. Thence sprung Nanamu, _fragrance_. Then Efuefu, _dust_. Then Iloa, _perceivable_. Then Maua, _obtainable_. Then Eleele, _earth_. Then Papatu, _high rocks_. Then Maataanoa, _small stones_. Then Maunga, _mountains_. Then Maunga married Malaeliua, or changeable meeting-place, and had a daughter called Fasiefu, _piece of dust_. She married Lave i fulufulu tolo, or down of the sugar-cane flower, and to her was born three sons: Mua, _first_; Uso, _brother_; Talu, and their sister Sulitonu, or true heir. And then follows a story as to Mua and Talu originating the names of two districts on the island of Upolu. 2. A cosmical genealogy takes the form of married couples, and runs as follows:-- _Male._ _Female._ _Progeny._ 1. The high rocks. The earth rocks. The earth. 2. The earth. High winds. Solid clouds.