Working hard.--Trip to Genzano.--Lake of Nemi.--Beggars.--Curious festival of flowers at Genzano.--Night on the Campagna.--Heat in Rome.-- Illumination of St. Peter's.--St. Peter's Day.--Vaults of the Church.-- Feebleness of Pope.--Morse and companions visit Naples, Capri, and Amalfi.--Charms of Amalfi.--Terrible accident.--Flippancy at funerals.-- Campo Santo at Naples.--Gruesome conditions.--Ubiquity of beggars.-- Convent of St. Martino.--Masterpiece of Spagnoletto.--Returns to Rome.-- Paints portrait of Thorwaldsen.--Presented to him in after years by John Taylor Johnston.--Given to King of Denmark.--Reflections on the social evil and the theatre.--Death of the Pope.--An assassination.--The Honorable Mr. Spencer and Catholicism.--Election of Pope Gregory XVI CHAPTER XVIII FEBRUARY 10, 1831--SEPTEMBER 12, 1831 Historic events witnessed by Morse.--Rumors of revolution.--Danger to foreigners.--Coronation of the new Pope.--Pleasant experience.--Cause of the revolution a mystery.--Bloody plot foiled.--Plans to leave for Florence.--Sends casts, etc., to National Academy of Design.--Leaves Rome.--Dangers of the journey.--Florence.--Description of meeting Prince Radziwill in Coliseum at Rome.--Copies portraits of Rubens and Titian in Florence.--Leaves Florence for Venice.--Disagreeable voyage on the Po.-- Venice, beautiful but smelly.--Copies Tintoret's "Miracle of the Slave." --Thunderstorms.--Reflections on the Fourth of July.--Leaves Venice.-- Recoaro.--Milan.--Reflections on Catholicism and art.--Como and Maggiore.--The Rigi.--Schaffhausen and Heidelberg.--Evades the quarantine on French border.--Thrilling experience.--Paris CHAPTER XIX SEPTEMBER 18, 1831--SEPTEMBER 21, 1832 Takes rooms with Horatio Greenough.--Political talk with Lafayette.-- Riots in Paris.--Letters from Greenough.--Bunker Hill Monument.--Letters from Fenimore Cooper.--Cooper's portrait by Verboeckhoven.--European criticisms.--Reminiscences of R.W. Habersham.--Hints of an electric telegraph.--Not remembered by Morse.--Early experiments in photography.-- Painting of the Louvre.--Cholera in Paris.--Baron von Humboldt.--Morse presides at Fourth of July dinner.--Proposes toast to Lafayette.--Letter to New York "Observer" on Fenimore Cooper.--Also on pride in American citizenship.--Works with Lafayette in behalf of Poles.--Letter from Lafayette.--Morse visits London before sailing for home.--Sits to Leslie for head of Sterne CHAPTER XX Morse's life almost equally divided into two periods, artistic and scientific.--Estimate of his artistic ability by Daniel Huntington.--Also by Samuel Isham.--His character as revealed by his letters, notes, etc.-- End of Volume I ILLUSTRATIONS MORSE THE ARTIST (Photogravure) Painted by himself in London about 1814. HOUSE IN WHICH MORSE WAS BORN, IN CHARLESTOWN, MASS.