In Paris you may test and compare several local varieties of the common oyster in a celebrated oyster-shop. There are Courseilles, Cancales, Marennes, Ostend, Zeeland, Arcachon, English natives, Côtes Rouges (red banks), and Black Rocks. And you can eat sea-urchins there, too, if you wish. They have not, however, got the celebrated oysters from the Lake Fusaro, near Naples. This was the ancient _Acherusia palus_, and in the neighbouring Lake Avernus and the Lucrine lake oysters were cultivated by the ancient Romans, the young oysters being made to affix themselves at “the fall of the spat” to wooden “stands” or frames, which were then placed in the lake (a salt-water lake), where they had abundant minute vegetable food and grew large and fat. The same cultivation, with the same shape of “stands,” is carried on at the present day in the Lake Fusaro. My friend, Mr. Günther, of Magdalen College, Oxford, has published pictures of Roman tiles from this neighbourhood showing the oysters adhering in rows to the wooden frames. These tiles were apparently sold to holiday visitors in the time of the Roman emperors as a memento of a happy day spent at the Lucrine lake, just as a sugar basin or a mug is now sold at our seaside resorts with the inscription, “A present from Margate,” or Southport, or Blackpool, and the picture of a shrimp above it. The care of the breeding oyster and the plans adopted by the owners of oyster-beds for catching the “spat,” or young oysters, when they fall to the bottom, by placing movable tiles or frames for them to fix themselves to, form an important part of the craft of the oyster-man. It is a difficult business, and is variously carried out in England, France, Holland, and America. The young oysters, when they have fixed themselves, are carried on the movable tiles or frames from one region to another for the purpose of encouraging their growth and avoiding a variety of dangers to their life and health (sometimes from the Bay of Biscay to the mouth of the Thames!). They are often—but not always—finally fed up in sea-ponds or inlets, which are peculiar in containing an enormous number of those very minute microscopic plants, with beautifully shaped siliceous shells, which are known as diatoms. These are so abundant in such ponds as to form a sort of powder or cloud near the bottom, and the oysters draw them, day and night, by their gill-currents into their mouths, digest them, and grow fine and fat. The district of Marennes, on the west coast of France, is celebrated for having sea-ponds or tanks in which a wonderful diatom of a bright blue colour abounds; so abundant are they that the cloud produced by them in the pools is of a deep cobalt-blue. When oysters are placed in these tanks to fatten, their gills or beards become rich blue-green in colour. They lose the colour after ten days, when removed to ordinary tanks. These are the celebrated green oysters or “Marennes vertes” of French restaurants.