Scientific American Supplement, No. 664, September 22,1888Various
History
Scientific American Supplement, No. 664, September 22,1888
Various
Science -- Periodicals
I have intentionally reserved till the last. There are lots of
theories why a spring will break just after cleaning, but I only know
that since I have adopted the method of never taking out the spring
(except when, after taking off the cap of barrel, I find it is all
gummed up with bad oil, and then of course clean it) I have found that
a spring does not break any oftener than is common, even if the watch
is not cleaned; but I invariably remove the barrel arbor and clean out
the holes and the arbor itself.
Of course to explain every detail of the method of repairing the
various parts of a watch would take more space than you would allow in
your journal, and hence I will not attempt to go into minute detail,
except perhaps some of the more important items, and the most common
things found in everyday experience. Among these are broken pivots,
worn pivots (sometimes requiring new ones), worn holes in plates, and
at the intersection of barrel arbor, ratch and bridge of Swiss
watches, etc., which, as a rule, require common sense as much as
practice, and it varies in different watches, so that the common sense
rule applies the best to nearly all of these, and if you have not got
common mechanical sense, then you have mistaken your calling and
should do something else. In any of these repairs don't go it blind,
but study your case carefully and do the best thing you study out.
When there is a worn pivot hole in a plate, and one side is
countersunk for oil, then have a punch rounded at the point, just the
shape of the countersink (and if you have not one make one, and here
is where my rule, that of making a tool as the need comes for it,
comes in play), and by screwing this punch into the vise, and with a
smooth, flat point punch (slightly cornered of course) in one hand and
holding the plate or bridge with the other, with the countersink on
the punch, have a striker tap light and quick blows, and you move the
punch around on the side most worn (and one side is almost invariably
worn most, throwing the wheel arbor out of upright) and close up, even
a little too much, and then with a round, smooth broach enlarge it, so
that it will be right size, and this leaves it hard and smooth.
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