Although our view gives but a small section of the loch, our notice
may be directed to the other parts of the route that now yearly
carries thousands of tourists through the Glenmore-nan-Albin. There is
at Corpach the famous 'Neptune's staircase,' where eight locks bring
the boat from the outer loch to the canal level. Loch Lochy, ten miles
in length, forms the western portion. Then after two miles of canal
Loch Oich is reached, this sheet of water being four miles long. Then
another cut takes to Loch Ness, the whole distance, from the staircase
to Muirton lock on the east side being about fifty miles. The entire
route, barring the delay at the locks up and down, has all the charm
of one continuous voyage on an inland lake, the portions in canal
being almost indistinguishable except in width from the natural
channels. There is a constant variety and glory of scenery during the
day's sail, and nowhere can the traveller spend a holiday with more
delightful surroundings.
LOCH CORUISK.
There are few scenes more fitted to move the imagination than the
wonderful loch, and the more wonderful hills that surround it,
presented in this view. It is somewhat of an exaggeration for Sir
Walter Scott to say that here
'Nor tree, nor shrub, nor plant, nor flower,
Nor ought of vegetative power
The weary eye may ken.'
But this is distinctly the impression of a first survey of the wild
scene, though under glints of sunshine there will not fail to meet the
eye little snatches of grassy bottom and stunted herbage, here and
there in the midst of the rocks. Yet there is so little to relieve the
singular darkness of the rock-pent water, and the dusky green of the
Cuchullin hills that surround it, that one fully appreciates, even in
the brightest weather, how true a picture Scott has drawn of the
scene:--
'For rarely human eye has known
A scene so stern as that dread lake
With its dark ledge of barren stone.
Seems that primeval earthquake's sway
Hath rent a strange and shattered way
Through the rude bosom of the hill,
And that each naked precipice
Sable ravine and dark abyss
Tells of the outrage still.'
To see Coruisk in fine weather is impressive, but it is when leaden
clouds weigh down the atmosphere, and dank mists clothe the rugged
peaks around, that the scene comes out in its full and weird
impressiveness. Then 'naked precipice,' 'sable ravine,' and 'dark
abyss,' are seen to be true words, and there comes on the spectator
some feeling of scenes that have been read of in Dante or Milton:--
'He views
The dismal situation, waste and wild.
A dungeon horrible on all sides round * *
Regions of sorrow, doleful shades, where peace
And rest can never dwell.'
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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