During my earlier visits to Skye, the Admiralty survey of the
surrounding seas and coasts was in progress, under the direction of
Captain Wood, R.N. He used to be a welcome guest at Kilbride, and he
sometimes took the house party on board his gunboat for a sail down
Loch Slapin. On one of these occasions we visited the Spar Cave, and,
with the help of the sailors and Bengal lights, we saw that famous
cavern more completely than perhaps it had ever been seen before. But
its glory was gone. A couple of generations of Sassenach tourists,
aided by the hammers, candles, and torches of ignorant Celts, had
defaced the place beyond belief, shorn it of the beauty of its white
crystalline pillars, and left it mangled and smoke-streaked. In the
course of centuries, if left undisturbed, ‘Nature, softening and
concealing, and busy with a hand of healing,’ would doubtless repair
the damage. But the ruthless iconoclast should in the meantime be
debarred access to the grotto, until the ‘sweet benefit of time’ has
renewed the former glories of the place.
We went on to Loch Scavaig, landed at the head of that gloomy fjord,
and walked over to Coruisk. I have often been there since, but have
never a second time witnessed a sight which was provided for us by the
tars of the gunboat. As everybody knows, who has been to this most
sombre of Scottish lakes, the declivities around the water are dotted
over with boulders of all sizes, left there by the glacier which once
filled the basin of Loch Coruisk and passed down Loch Scavaig out to
sea. Some of these blocks of stone stand perched in the most perilous
positions, on steep slopes and on the edge of cliffs, whence from a
little distance it seems as if a mere touch would suffice to send them
bounding into the lake below. Their number and situation evidently
interested the sailors, who, as a change from their usual boating and
sounding for the marine survey, dashed off for the nearest hill, along
the profile of which the boulders lay in especial abundance. We had not
noticed at first in which direction the men moved, when our attention
was attracted by a thundering noise from the hill in question, followed
by a loud splash in the lake below. The tars had found some of the
perched blocks capable of being moved, and no doubt they dislodged
as many as they could. But, fortunately for the sake of geologists,
they could not succeed with the larger and finer boulders, which still
remain where the melting ice allowed them to rest.
[Sidenote: NIGHT AT LOCH SCAVAIG]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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