Various anecdotes are in circulation about the passengers and crew of
these western steamboats. One of these narratives, of which different
versions have been told, relates how on a dull, drizzling, and misty
evening, when every attention had to be given to the rather intricate
navigation, a lady began to ask questions of the man at the wheel. He
answered her as briefly as possible for a time; but, as she still plied
him with queries, he at last lost his temper and abruptly desired her
to go to the nether regions. She retired in high dudgeon and sought out
the captain, insisting that the man should be discharged, and that she
would report the matter to Mr. Hutcheson. The captain tried to soothe
her, expressing his own regret at the language that had been used to
her, and assuring her that he would make the man apologise to her for
his conduct. She thereupon went down to the saloon and poured out her
indignation to some of her fellow-passengers. In the midst of her talk,
a man in dripping oilskins and cap in hand appeared at the door, and,
after some hesitation and looking round the company, advanced to the
irate lady and said, ‘Are you the leddy I tellt to gang to hell? Weel,
the captain says ye needna gang yet.’ Such was the apology.
I well remember, when as a lad of eighteen I first visited Skye, that
the steamer carrying the usual miscellaneous cargo in the hold and
on deck, after rounding the Mull had made so many calls, and had so
much luggage and merchandise to discharge at each halt, that it was
past midnight of the second day before we came into Broadford Bay. The
disembarkation was by small-boat, and as we made our way shorewards,
the faces of the oarsmen were at every stroke lit up with the pale,
ghostly light of a phosphorescent sea. The night was dark, but with
the aid of a dim lantern one could mount the rough beach, where I was
met by a son of the Rev. John Mackinnon of Kilbride, with whom I had
come to spend a few weeks. We had a drive of some five miles inland,
enlivened with Gaelic songs which my young friend and his cousin
screamed at the pitch of their voices. At a certain part of the road
they became suddenly silent, or only spoke to each other in whispers.
We were then passing the old graveyard at Kilchrist; but when we
had got to what was judged a safe distance beyond it and its ghosts,
the hilarity began anew, and lasted until we came to our destination
between two and three o’clock in the morning.
[Sidenote: THE TELEGRAPH IN HIGHLANDS]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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