Various memorials of Paganism may be recognised, to some of which
further reference will be made in a later chapter. Of these memorials,
the numerous standing stones are the most conspicuous, whether as
single monoliths, marking the grave of some forgotten hero or dedicated
to some unknown divinity, or as groups erected doubtless for religious
purposes, like the great assemblage at Callernish in the Lewis. Besides
these stones, many burial mounds, resting-places of the pagan dead,
have yielded relics of the Stone and Bronze Ages. In some respects more
impressive even than these relics, are the superstitious customs which
still survive amongst us, and have probably descended uninterruptedly
from pagan times; such, for instance, as the practice of walking
around wells and other places three times from east to west, as the
sun moves, and the practice of leaving offerings at the springs which
are resorted to for curative purposes. Some of these customs were
continued by the early Celtic Church, persisted afterwards through the
Roman Catholic period, and even now, in spite of all the efforts of
Protestant zeal, they have not been wholly extirpated.
[Sidenote: DESERTS OF THE CELTIC SAINTS]
The vestiges of the early Celtic Church, by which Paganism was
superseded, are specially abundant in the Highlands. Even where all
visible memorials have long since vanished, the name of many a devoted
saint and missionary still clings to the place where he or she had a
chapel or hermitage, or where some cell was dedicated to their memory.
The names of Columba, Bridget, Oran, Donan, Fillan, Ronan, and others
are as familiar on the lips of modern Highlanders as they were on those
of their forefathers, although the historical meaning and interest of
these names may be unknown to those who use them now. When, besides
the name attached to the place, the actual building remains with which
the name was first associated in the sixth or some later century, the
interest deepens, especially where the relic stands, as so many of them
do, on some small desolate islet, placed far amid the melancholy main,
and often for weeks together difficult or impossible of approach,
even now, with the stouter boats of the present day. Such places, like
those off the west coast of Ireland, were sought for retirement from
the work and worry of the world, where the missionary devoted himself
to meditation and prayer. The numerous Deserts, Diserts, Dysarts,
and Dyserts in Ireland and Scotland are all forms of the Gaelic word
_Disert_, derived from the Latin _Desertum_, a desert or sequestered
place, and mark retreats of the early propagandists of Christianity.
It fills one with amazement and admiration to contemplate the heroism
and self-devotion which could lead these men in their frail coracles
to such sea-washed rocks, where there is often no soil to produce any
vegetation, and where, except by impounding rain, there can be no
supply of fresh water.
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