In those Highland parishes where Gaelic is still commonly spoken, two
services are held in the churches on Sunday, the first in that language
and the second, after a brief interval, in English. This practice
was followed in Strath. In the days of the Celtic Church, a chapel
dedicated to Christ stood in the middle of the parish and was known
as Kilchrist. On the same site, the Protestant Church was afterwards
erected, and continued to be used until towards the middle of last
century. But, like the adjacent manse, it fell into disrepair and was
ultimately allowed to become the roofless ruin which stands in the
midst of the old graveyard of Kilchrist. Instead of rebuilding it,
the heritors, about the year 1840, resolved to erect a new church at
Broadford, nearer to the chief centre of population. For two Sundays
in succession the services are held at Broadford; on the third Sunday
they take place at a little chapel in Strathaird, on the western side
of the parish, for the benefit of a mixed crofter and fishing community.
[Sidenote: SUNDAY SERVICES IN SKYE]
At the Gaelic service in the Broadford church, a prominent feature
used to be the row of picturesque red-cloaked or tartan-shawled old
women, who, sitting in front immediately below the pulpit, followed the
prayers and the sermon with the deepest attention, frequently uttering
a running commentary of sighs and groans, while now and then one could
even see tears coursing down the wrinkles into which age and peat-reek
had shrivelled their cheeks.
The Sundays at Strathaird were peculiarly impressive. The house party
from the manse--family, guests and servants--walked to the shore of the
sea-inlet of Loch Slapin, embarked there in rowing boats, and pulled
across the fjord and along the base of the cliffs on the opposite side.
No finer landscape could be found even amidst the famous scenery of
Skye,--the pink and russet-coloured cones and domes of the Red Hills,
and the dark pinnacles and crags of Blaven behind us, and the blue
islands that closed in the far distance in front.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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